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1674-6 Ian Schrager! 7 r^1 T I I F BE S T O F T H F • A R • 1 I F R A FROM PALM BEACH TO FORT LAUDERDALE , B A L HARBOUR T O BOCA R A T O N : TIIE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO THE GOLD COAST . ANYONE CAN PLAY . • BY JILL ROBINSON PHOTOGRAPHED BY S T E WART FEREBEE . __ ........._, ----...,,.. _----------- ''---- florida --,. -....., •-., ,,,44,411/44.16.41. .,....,-.4• -4\14,116 ; saims11.11111111111Mirah.--- , -.,,, -........... -,...... . •...o, T__ Tou're here to celebrate Florida recherche: to wear wrinkled white linen, sip lemonade; to cruise along the waterways past sleepy lagoons, telling stories to strangers about who you may _ - :MOE or may not really be -,,-,''' .' • I ---• - . . . ,, - -:- 'qr. .....'----:,-.4c.-...---As.":•1.,Y - . , , -le-._ . •- ., ,,,,,- am if ...... ..,z - • --,,,,A, - :.. , ...... : . -.46.. T. - •.s... _ --__ — . ... ... A r• T., . . . , 241.116.1r — -. .' . .. • r . . *-- , . ..-. s .ire' i r 'es . '• S - ''''' • " tift11111..- '1"" iiiiiM "•"L. 7 . • I .. • e I . •.‘1'.1 t 1 zoo, _ . AD 1111;ft;'. 111%66. 'VP - '. . . -.4.1 ".• .1r A%I.-. I.Ile;•L'- ".. , ,,,, , A...." ...... . ''' ••• .1 ' • . .. )11'1' 1111111111MIIPPIP*. ,4, A. 14 „ . .., i I..' . .,, %.1 $116:::A•. ?f.'s/re,:siiimot;',,,, . . . - ....e. • - ' _e/at --•-•: .,_ Amor • . . - . • ; •,!4! . -. 1- - •',- 7.,....,1:1,49ier' .-.14 ' ' .-. .ft ' - • <• .44."..,:,....„, .....:• , ..‘,..... „---78..,,, -.-,.....,..„ . . • VIA A - , il . , \ %d ; . \ • ,,e4,2..y14 ,9111‘i.r'''..•'''. '''' ."„ .'...,...,'. ' *:. ''' ''.. ..' ' ' \\' 314'' , .. -. k,... ,,' "4:*;; .47:s'20;4FC.'''' '44:. '''C.'v- .:;..•' ..,7'..7''' 40 ,":7r•`-.!..4..::-:71*V" v -7'7', :' <. - 7- .. - ''',.. . -fr-:" . •;., 17"er, '. ••• ' - • * .. . ..,. .., • . .,-Z7 ,.-L ..- '' , .r.','Vl.;'..t7,. .f•, e. . M - ..c 1 .. ..4e, itb„.•.•,' 1 .' kl. . . ,,Ni"''. . ... 1 N. ', 7.1' .. . v• -''W ` ,....,' '7 • . 4., . • . • .. . • __ . .T . e• - - ' f - . _ . 1 f• . . . -, ti- '''• . . • ' VEN THE CAR RENTAL GARAGE, like the best resorts,projects its own history and picks up filled with red and blue and yours: when I sat down for breakfast the second day,the sandy beige convertibles and honey I like in my tea was already there. murals of tropical birds and During the day,while you're playing tennis or indoor peach sunsets, says this is a basketball,doing yoga or the really hot Western line-dant- holiday. While you wait for ing classes, the kids will love Boca's banana boat rides. your car, a fruit juice truck You'll all like walking through the gardens with Craig comes through to remind you Morell, Boca's nursery manager. See anoles—Caribbean • that this is Florida, to remind lizards with red throats—exchange trapped flies with you that every moment is going friends,slipping in and out among the shell ginger plants to be wonderful. (feel the back of the leaf).Darting about are 10 types of but • - Don't take I-95 to your ho- terflies. Don't miss the purple gingers coming up from the tel. Instead, glide along AlA banana tree cleavage;then join turquoise golf pants and from Bal Harbour to Palm Beach.AlA is the Gold Coast's 24-karat highway,where Make you mistake the yacht for a shopping center,and the shop- H o W to M ake I t Clear ping center passes for Australia. Ope of the best mean feelings is arriving at one of the You Speak superstar resorts just as someone else, dressed for the plane,is leaving to go back to house,mail,and work.It's the Language all ahead of you,and you're going to be busy. But don't be so busy snorkeling around coral reefs, 1• Don't wear a suit. Unless it's white linen and wrinkled. whizzing Jet Skis through waves,biking down palmy roads, Or new jet-black silk over, yes, an ebony mesh T-shirt. chugging over golf courses,fishing in deep seas,or store- surfing through icy shopping colonies that you forget to 2. Learn to hitch your jacket over your languish under an umbrella.On rare overcast days,there's shoulders as you walk. a Humphrey Bogart moody quiet as you lie there watching thonged bodies court the waves and listening to the drone 3. If you're going to wear high heels, wear red sandals. of planes taking other people back home. Should it rain, the total definition of cool(in both senses)is floating on , your back in the pool.A sweet fruit smoothie waits beside 4. Sit by the pool reading novels from your Lido-striped lounge;a captivating attendant brings Liberties Fine Books&Music in Boca Raton. you fresh towels,ball game scores,local stories. (Even your reading glasses are shades.) You're here to celebrate Florida recherche, to wear wrinkled white linen,sip lemonade;to cruise along the wa- 5. Cruise along the Dixie Highway to the antiques district terways past sleepy lagoons, telling stories to strangers in Dania. Feels like old paperback Los Angeles. See 1920's movie mansions, giant urns, gilded chairs. about who you may or may not really be. 6. Have the concierge arrange for a plane to fly by with a HO T E L S banner saying I LOVE YOU. Even if you're here alone. It will T N E GRANDE 8 DAMES get around that you're eccentric or here to see Someone. Boca Raton Resort & Club 501 E. Camino Real, Boca Raton;800/327-0101 or 407/395-3000,fax 407/391-3183; 7. Do West Palm Beach's Clematis Street doubles in Cloister$130–$270, Tower$150–$240, Beach from midnight to dawn. Club$190–$425. Henry Kissinger, George Bush,Oprah Winfrey,and Tom Selleck all love Boca.Which isn't diffi- 8. Watch the Boca Raton Resort&Club's Channel 5— cult to do,because Boca is three hotels in one—something very classy adult movies—from 10 A.M. to 3 A.M. for everyone.There's the famous pink Cloister,where peo- ple in Hollywood used to go to pretend they were still at the 9. Send sprays of orchids to your room. They're waiting Beverly Hills Hotel.There's the 21st-century Tower,from when you both arrive. With a card from Someone. which you can look out over Florida. And then there's the airy modern Beach Club,which sits right on the Atlantic; 10. Don't wear a watch or a phone by the pool. chandeliers of giant crystal cubes hang over the long lobby, And don't look at your watch when you come back to its gleaming wood floors bordered by a parade of palms, your room. There's the smell of the pool water and like rows of plumed escorts.To feel like royalty,get up very suntan oil on warm shoulders—and there's time before early and sit here on a velvet chair. Listen to your staff dinner. Then one of you says, "So never mind dinner." putting the place together as you gaze out at the sea.Boca, And, later, you say, "Hello, room service?" 138 Travel & Leisure •November 1995 40. . ti/Ai – -- 1 • '0P , ; i . ? . t •y 0!).4 la 0 ..,, , If ,. iii ` • ?`-- Oa ' �� 1. � �:. ... ,.. , p: I _ . ) .,. .... v _ .:,..„r„:„. ...;....„....„:„..... . ............4,...: ,... . . . • c ,...._. •_ _.___,.. • . . . , . _. .. _...„ , . . s . L _ , ... _ . ., 1 . . , , ..... ., . __...,2_ . 1 Y'' ,ate F. - .... _ .., I h�• 11)1(1 11(1loir llr•..)rl"f4 ('lull. r 1 d .- ... . .,. , iiiiir.P,M, .." ,.. .-;17,,,,,l;'. I,r:ir ...I._-i 1i:1111, III"'Ull . ''. 143' '- '-'41."-:'' " .5:71:40S-4 Aft° ..-- ,,i• 140q n '!LL!!i r.R mrt M ".2!lFii I i , _1. s� . _�,,,;.__ ...,i7., ...:sz,,,,,,.,. rz ,.i.. : ,,,_.) .,,,...,... , . ....,... _ ,,,., ,, ''`' 1, . , - �; r v -4.111-._1 7540. `fie >y ..,, .T Fa " _ ,.; •My, i eA , ear:• '+ aw-. .<' Seaside ill l''Oil Lnur'(h..(/nle. W\int' 11)(1111. l.a I i(•iIle 1/rri.0!/. Rues lirrl„rr. florida s'' III • II 7r :24` 9f . ._ -.- . ----7----, ... . he. •r4fat the Bal Harbour Shops: 0ver 1 " I '.F ' °icier. Can I Ni 'car that .. "All r. - peed to know is how tall you are. " .AT •' $.• - -. ,,, S' i,i.,•'•1 :/.: '..Yrit, ffi4 •' . .:,",!•••:,:••'.5••;:;'•• ,e. e .......'. ...".".............'T.1501C .•'.i'. '' i ,. . .- '... •.••' 'iSii 4••'• ‘.. : _ .,'.: ,9•04.''04 •'0! !.c.. iirf, , , 411 tit* 1 ......;:,.. .., IIIAI A. J 4.1 Ai• • . .. .., . . ... • • • . - . .. . . . . .,.. • .. ,: ... !..i.: . ,.„..s,',..f li . 4 4* ,.,. ,.• .4,-,„:. .....„,.., . , .4.t•-. . -,,,,•,, . .... ii•••14,. \tiisVz, , . . ......: ca. ,. .,.. . . .. . ,e , .-.:.,. . .2, kf,, 1 . : ‘..%:•:•. irk.,•. •.•.••.' :• ftli 1#*' ' .,..•' I . 4.. • • 1.. , .., 1 1 ' it :1 . '.•,. e lifiF• ' •. .. -i i,v,.. .„,, . A.i.• • .. '-c --. ,,,.. I Pt f, 1 1 ,•: .., . i4 1. = r ...\ . 4:i lot i w ..,.. ,• „.... , . C .•. ‘' . ' '''''t,. - • Or fil , --11*,.. i ! E,' 1 .' --N9 . • ' ., a MO n $ ,-- --- Aftermion among Ilia Itreukers cabuiiiis. .. . ... I - J florida he cabbies and water taxi captains . here know everything. "No one told the Trumps," a Palm Beach driver confides, "but you don't want to be near the MaraLago estate. That's where the planes fly over." argyle knee socks on their way to one of Boca's two 18-hole fornian to say,but the best Caesar salad I've had,ever,is golf courses.Later,you'll dine in;like all the old European at the Grill.I had it three times.Each time even better.The deluxe hotels, the landmark Gold Coast resorts are de- lobster,sauced in mustard and tarragon,is set in a still life signed around formal restaurants.The managers at Boca of asparagus,tiny carrots,and shallots.Carrot cake comes are stylish,evident;the guests dress the part,either at Top with ice cream in a pastry cup;tapioca in a chocolate cup. of the Tower,for Italian,or Nick's Fishmarket,for seafood. To see the Ritz napkin-folders in action is to watch The Ritz-Carlton 100 S. Ocean Blvd., Manalapan; swordplay.Each fold has its role:the Bird-of-Paradise goes 800/241-3333 or 407/533-6000,fax 407/588-4202;dou- into a wineglass;the Fan Fold appears with tea and cakes; 1 bles$135–$575. Here,in tony rooms and suites with mar- the Artichoke crowns serving plates;the Bread Fold adorns ble baths done in the grand seven-inch plates;the Under- scale of the old family estates, water goes under pitchers; you feel you're born to the the Cafe Fold must show the beach. Fall asleep to the s Ritz lion's head. sound of silky waves on ",,k' The Breakers 1 S. County pearly sand, wake up to - Rd., Palm Beach; 800/833- breakfast on your own bal- 3141 or 407/655-6611, fax cony—lobster hash and ': '� 407/659-8403;doubles$135– . poached eggs; banana pan- ` ',�`a' , $490. Here'sperfect Roaring cakes with thick orange hol- 4t+, `,' a Twenties panache: crystal . landaise; French toast with , urns of ice at the breakfast pecan butter;fruit salad with " --. buffet, blooming with pink shredded coconut. The Ritz grapefruit and butter molded maintains its elegance with a like seashells; magnificent startling particularity: the baroque public rooms;lots of • doorman and bellmen always blue-book,old-money guests. remember your name,and the What you always suspected is laundry even polished the true:they do have a perfectly snap on my white jeans. ..marvelous time. I saw three I was alone in the small generations of a family sitting whirlpool bath one morning, around a table,regarding one languishing under the palms, another fondly.They were there when a four-year-old joinedOn 11ie he nrhagain at dinner under the me and explained why she urs I.nirrlr rrinlr chandelier in the Florentine wanted to stay here forever:"I Room,before plates of tender like the snails, beetles, lamb with Oz-green mint jelly. lizards,my silver bathing suit, and the pink ice cream." (Key lime pie,legend has it,was invented by a chef here: You'll also like the frozen piña colada bar,and the frozen the taste is primal.)Later everyone segues to Club Alcazar, custard between two chocolate-chip cookies.Or the Ocean where you dance under giant stars flashing over the floor. Cafe,where you can pick up a little Caribbean chicken The rooms are charming,individual.On the black head- pizza with fresh cilantro and sour cream. At teatime you'll board are delicate Chinese-style gilt paintings of trees and want to parade over Persian rugs through the hotel foyer,in islands. Printed paper,nice for thank-you notes,fills the white sharkskin,of course.It's a people-watching paradise, drawers.On the sixth floor is a concierge lounge with com- which means they're watching you while they're tasting plimentary teas—and regulars. Some may live here: one sandwiches,crumpets,and cakes. fine-boned lady carries one of the most famous names in Dine at the dashing Grill restaurant.Tough for a Cali- the world.She shares tales,like a house storyteller;sets her 142 Travel & Leisure •November 1995 I ... . .. 400*0000sw .. . . . ' , . .. .. .. . ,. ....•••••••••"'".. 1 - . . ... . .. . . . ... . •.'. . . , . . ... ' ' , . .....- ...•. ' . . .. . „...,.. .. . .•• .` -.," . "..' •,, -"•-. . .. - ' . . . ' ... , - . •• • . , . . . . ... t ..,.„..... .. ,,,. -,,,..•x.',-,-4ali .. „ _. v:1 ,.. 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'''.••:' * '.. •• ..— ,,- , '5. %..^`.,,.,-, - ,11:‘.:?!4ra,I i y•-,' : ,‘ ;','',:!';.•:::.:1c;j*.t.' 7!...:::;;• ;'.:4:7,4;44. •••.',r;;....:',u.:...; ,, t.s.'..i.,• •,...'' .':I,'Aott‘ .f.,".;Ay.•,, ^.:- s.•`.r.:.'"';'::Z.IF.. , rq„. ,e./: ‘els,1 2,it., '.'4‘,./-?A` i`i'.';:,-:,,:';.::' ''''-,'",:'`.t,v;'''0,1',,l..„4.!•I'A ,`',,,:';',,.,:,,4.!,,.':,:‘:' z, .s.,•,1.,:'..t-',;„; ..10"1.t j:;..1.4",#,.7' ''•.A;.<•'.',. '1 '‘‘I•.'-;"\..t `'-',..f, ' e l.".44"At •'', ''. 'oP,,5q,..,'',,,' ,i, ,t'0 ••"'4;1 if.''444(A '',' k% y• ' • -sh t't t'•N•F : in. , z144.,,,,,).;' l).'• .. •''C ,\'' ., A.....A. ,•. V. is„ . ' 5•'. -{-.4. -'1‘. ''`.•'. ' ' ..ie 4''V:' ':"." '•-'. ' 1,1" florida • sixyearold sits at the table with his father; they're talking to each other on portable phones. "You want a little Champagne with your orange juice?" perfume bottles on the table the way you'd lay out gloves BEST VALUE HOTELS and a fan.Her safari hat protects her from window sunlight. Not every guest room on the Gold Coast is priced at the The best time to venture out is before 8 A.M.,when the high end.This is still Florida,after all,where renting a car town is still fresh with dawn.Walk along County Road,hear can be cheaper than renting a golf cart and every major ho- the sound of tennis balls,the chatter of parrots and crows. tel and motel chain has a presence.In the low season—May through September—you'll find bargains even at the name A QUIETER GLAMOUR resorts: the $305 high-season rate at the Breakers goes The Four Seasons Ocean Grand 280050 Ocean Blvd., down to$130 in summer. If you're willing to drive only a Palm Beach;800/432-2335 or 407/582 2800,fax 407/547- few minutes inland,you can find any number of good ho- 1374;doubles$140–$500. Polished,sunny elegance,the tels with doubles for under$100,even in winter. Closer perfect service you expect,and a superb beach.The only to the scene,here are two excellent year-round options. grand hotel here that feels cozy, intimate.Where to go if The Riverside Hotel 620 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lau- you prefer not to notice the conventioneers often seen derdale;800/325-3280 or 305/467-0671,fax 305/462-2148; traipsing around the other hotels. Your modern, peach- doubles$74–$149.The original Fort Lauderdale hotel,built toned room has a private terrace.Outside,blue-and-white in 1936, and full of atmosphere and charm—terra-cotta cabanas cluster on the beach like an army from Ben-Hur. tile floors,wicker chairs,even coral fireplaces.Some rooms overlook the New River and the hotel's private docks.You WHERE TO MOOR THE YACHT can walk everywhere.The center of the real action. Hyatt Heyemicy Pier 66 2301 S.E. 17th St., Fort Lau- Brazilian Court Hotel 301 Australian Ave.,Palm Beach; derdale;800/327-3796 or 305/525-6666,fax 305/728-3541; 800/552-0335 or 407/655-7740,fax 407/655-0801;doubles doubles$169–$229. Smack on the Intracoastal Waterway, $65–$260. Everyone gathers here on Derby Day for mint fronted by a 142-slip marina and its own Aquatic Center, juleps,but meet any day in the charming courtyards,under which arranges, among other things, deep-sea fishing the yellow and white umbrellas; have French toast with trips and private catered charters on the waterway.After a grilled fruits.Your room is summer-house fresh,topped by cruise, drift about in the two swimming pools, spend the pistachio ice cream ceilings. evening spinning above the hotel's 17-story tower at the Pier Top Revolving Lounge.You'll never lose your sea legs. RESTAURANTS WHEN You BEGIN TO MISS THE CLUB DINNER Turnberry Isle Resort & Club 19999 W. Country Club Mark's Las Olas 1032 E.Las Olas Blvd.,Fort Lauderdale; Dr., Aventura; 8001223-1588 or 305/932-6200, fax 305/463-1000; dinner for two$70. Twenties into fifties 305/933-6560;doubles$140–$395. Friendly marble lions chrome style.Arresting flavors,include cinnamon rice,Yu- welcome you at the entrance to this resort,with on-site golf catecan coconut tomato sauce,green chili ravioli.And con- courses,yacht club,and marina. Don't miss the waterfall sider this: seared peppercorn-crusted yellowfin tuna,with and bridge draped in orchids,cygnets,and lilies. White root-vegetable pâté. (I'm flying back now.) umbrellas shield you by the pool,against the backdrop of Evangeline 211 S. Atlantic Blvd., Fort Lauderdale; lush bougainvillea and hibiscus.The light, lovely deluxe 305/522-7001;dinner for two$50. See Longfellow's leg- rooms have balconies and Jacuzzis. Double-sided desks endary tale depicted along the dark green ceiling frieze here remind you that hotels think of everything—even iced above the tangerine walls.Evangeline used to be part of the towels for sunbathers.Except paper,pens,and bright desk cruising scene;now it has booths outfitted in rich tapestry. lights. But then,not everyone is a paperback writer. Sweet-pepper salsa tastes delicious with duck quesadil- las and sour cream. Save room for the bread pudding AFTER You SELL THE HOUSE mousse,but don't miss the muffuleta filled with cheese,the Banyan Marina Apartments 111 Isle of Venice, Fort olive spreads,and the small caviar selection. Lauderdale;800/524-4431 or 305/524-4430,fax 305/764- Baci 344 Plaza Real, Mizner Park, Boca Raton; 4870;one-bedroom apartments$130–$155. Informal apart- 407/362-8500; dinner for two $60. Here is the Italian ments above a Venetian-style waterway.Now you know how restaurant.The panettone alone makes Baci the Tiffany of it would feel to live here—under the banyan tree,with dry Sunday brunch.Other times,try gnocchi with pesto,steak wood,cactus,and people you like,especially the owners. with caramelized onions.The open (continued on page 182) November 1995 • Travel & Leisure 147 FLORIDA (continued from page 147) kitchen sug- dinner for two$65. Close your eyes, Beach;407/832-0201;dinner for two gests a sprawling SoHo art studio,but you're in New York. Actually, open $76. The kind of place where,if they . with garlic garlands, not painter's your eyes; we're all wearing shades know you,you'll get a lot of attention, rags,swinging from matte steel pipes. anyway. You want table 20. You'll which will give you the impression the Bistro l'Europe, 346 Plaza Real, have to wait at the bar, but there's food is better. The latkes will seem Mizner Park, Boca Raton; 407/368- bluefish pâté with chunks of matzoh. crisper than they are,for example. 4488; dinner for two $60. After the "If the garment business wasn't here, roomful of emerald and peach blazers, this place couldn't survive,"someone PROGRESSIVE DINNERS the thing to see is the tiny palm trees says. A Caesar salad the size of Sali- ON THE WATERWAY of tarragon in plump crab cakes,set nas(but the Ritz's still wins).Dashing Bacchanalian perfection is going by on a mash of very sweet carrots with tuna, with a ginger rose, lashed by water taxi to one Fort Lauderdale green herb mayo. Then order the ropes of horseradish, dappled with restaurant for your starter,to another pecan-crusted salmon. sesame seeds in a nest of sea grass. for the main course, and then some- La Vieille Maison 770 E. Pal- Zenith Bistro Regency Court, where else for dessert and coffee.You metto Park Rd.,Boca Raton;407/391- 3011 Yamato Rd., Boca Raton; may find it hard to tear yourself away 6701; dinner for two$110. Exactly: 407/997-2570; dinner for two $60. after each course. But you can do the a charming old house, flowers in They take the portobello mushroom, whole thing the other way around to- strange vases,lanterns on the tables, fill it with truffle oil and ravioli,and morrow night. wonderful blue-and-white chande- somehow it's all new. Bimini Boatyard 1555 S.E. 17th Tiers, quilted Provençal place mats. Mai Kai 3599 N. Federal Hwy., St., Fort Lauderdale;305/525-7400; Silky sourdough,crisp quail in a nest Fort Lauderdale;305/563-3272;din- dinner for two$40. Like eating on a gi- of potatoes,goat cheese in olive oil— ner for two $70. You'll want to have ant old riverboat:rugs with stripes and the flavors of a French summer. You your sarong on, too. Waterfalls and roses, flags and tinsel hangings, an know it's Florida only from the man at mai tais,that sort of thing. open kitchen with five chefs. Brawny the next table,talking about cheating Jo's 375 S. County Rd., Palm flavors,especially Steven's sandwich: on the 11th hole.You'll hear"La Vie Beach;407/659-6776;dinner for two chicken,jack cheese,and sour cream en Rose"more than a few times,but $70. A Thai-French menu and a cast on sourdough.Good spicy ribs. stay around for the chocolate mousse. out of old Palm Beach. Feels like Indigo At the Riverside Hotel, 620 C h a r l e y's Crab 456 S. Ocean you're dining at Someone's home. E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale; Blvd., Palm Beach; 407/658-1500; Amici 288 S. County Rd., Palm 305/467-0671; dinner for two $50. Ron Morrison (of Evangeline fame) The 111-atl flegenri• Pier 66: opened this informal Southeast Asian you'll serer lose your sea legs. café last month, just steps from the waterway in Fort Lauderdale's ``q oldest hotel. Before sailing off Y}fi. , again,enjoy cocktails and jazz in the Golden Lyon Bar. California Café 2301 S.E. 17th lit St., Fort Lauderdale;305/728 3500; dinner for two$64. For tuna with ca- per remoulade and chili oil;four-color o it linguine with clams,steak with pep- per-jack quesadillas;peanut stew;and a nouveau pianist. Or stop by later al,, .. . for dessert and after-dinner liqueurs. a. BREAKFAST, LUNCH, ICE CREAM .. Greens 151 N. County Rd., Palm , ,. Beach; 407/832-9171; breakfast for ` two$10. Like a saloon in an old west- * r • ern—you walk in here and the town- . .. _ y � � + ies and their kids turn to size you up. I You can hear your footsteps as you ` • amble up to the counter. After a few - mornings you'll feel like an old-timer; �,,, _ ��, Rsti they'll know what you always have,so Stewart Ferebee FLORIDA you'll never get a chance to try some- r i: ,`; S ;\ \ Worth Avenue, thing else.Julie with the long blond 1,' I. ��• ,' Palm Beach. braid serves the cop his coffee,tells i a., \Vhim, "Turn off your radio for three �� ;i minutes while you're eatin'." - i; Cafe Europa 726 E. Las Olas Blvd.,Fort Lauderdale;305/763-6600; " --- lunch lunch for two $18. Also at 331 S. County Rd., Palm Beach; 407/655- 4020. The Beach Boys have grown X11I: up, they've read Fitzgerald, and – 4 they're discussing Richard Dawkins _ y, l' It' over iced cappuccino. olt — -- _ Cheeburger, Cheeburger 708 .R aK z✓„� '• 1/4\ Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale; ./A. , ,, ,,_ a', 305/524-8824;lunch for two$10.You ,” . ,tr- ! jcouldn't miss the giant burger outside. ,'r You ,shouldn't miss the jalapeno \9'°+°. 0` cheeseburger.Or the vanilla shake. `, .3 Waterway Cafe 2300 PGA Blvd., IIii II Palm Beach Gardens;407/694-1700; !'a i lunch for two $20. The island bar i' floats in the water(note the life jack- , r -` —'—_= - ets). Sip Panama Hatties,order crab .,-,--F.,,-, , r1 ' cakes,whisper over the sound of cars, ' ,.., K e,�:: 3,sr. y k the roar of boats,the whir of fans. - ;,4';. ... :,-,, Sprinkles 253 Poinciana Way, 1 • - .'. :, . .,`. ' ' Palm Beach;407/659-1140. Stop-in (yes,really!),et al.Mary Gottlieb will Slippers galore,flat shoes in the Eng- 1 for a chocolate malt with vanilla ice dress you perfectly. lish style(some with seals and crests), cream ($3.75). The thing to have on Tracy Dara Kamenstein 235A linens,and tapestries. the date with Judy. Worth Ave., Palm Beach; 407/833- Irving Galleries 332 Worth Ave., 4055. They hatched 550 chicks in a Palm Beach; 407/659-6221. Irving SHOPPING witty window display and gave them to Luntz collects stories the way his WORTH AVENUE, PALM B EACH kids to play with last Easter.Parents clients collect Matisses and Picassos. It's Florida's own Bond Street. tagged along to get pictures, then And they trust him because he doesn't Lacoste 206 Worth Ave., Palm stayed to buy fine original jewelry. tell the stories;you just know he knows Beach;407/655-5666. This and the Hermes 255 Worth Ave., Palm everything,the way he knows art. one in Bal Harbour are the only La- Beach;407/655-6655. The trick is to Devonshire 340 Worth Ave.,Palm coste stores in the country. And how. get the guys who fold napkins at the Beach;407/833-0796. Highlights: a Paper Treasures 217 Worth Ave., Ritz to show you how to do the arti- decoupage chest from England, a Palm Beach; 407/835-1891. Auto- choke, for example, with your new corgi pillow(the queen has one),and graphs of Natalie Wood, Princess Hermes scarf. Look for the Kachina handmade tole shades. Grace,Judy Garland. But then,who scarf by Kermit Oliver. (This month, Hurricane of Palm Beach 345 collects stories with happy endings? see the Flagler Museum's exhibit: Worth Ave., Palm Beach; 407/833- Daniel Foxx 222 Worth Ave.,Palm "Hermes: A Scarf is Born.") 6810. Candles,some gold-leaf,others Beach;407/832-7447. Superstar cou- Stubbs & Wooten 323 Worth fresh and lovely like hydrangeas, to ture: Mary McFadden,Jacques Fath Ave., Palm Beach; 407/655-4105. float in the lily pond. \'\ tch for couture dog collars and red leather Evian carriers in Bal Harbour. One turbaned woman was wearing, I was told, the four best emeralds in the world. 184 Travel & Leisure • November 1995 FLORIDA Mary Mahoney 351 Worth Ave., Just for Cooks 806 E. Las Olas fon separates.Emma Mistou sweaters. Palm Beach;407/655-8288. Porthault Blvd., Fort Lauderdale; 305/766- South by Southwest 833 E. Las . printed linens with elegant borders; 2555.They give you cappuccino while Olas Blvd.,Fort Lauderdale;305/761- Frette sheets with perfectly aristo- you select items for baskets you'd like 1196. Soleri bells,Ray Tracy jewelry, cratic patterns; swans carved on a made up and sent as gifts. brilliant Zapotec rugs and runners, miniature sofa. Under Wraps 823 E. Las Olas coyotes to hang on your jeans. Lars Bolander 375 S. County Rd., Blvd.,Fort Lauderdale;305/522-2227. MALLS Palm Beach;407/832-2121. Just off Vintage women's clothes from the Worth Avenue.Antiques,custom fur- twenties through the forties (to wear B AL HARBOUR SHOPS niture, and objects for the home— with pin curls,and Revlon's Cherries 9700 Collins Ave., Bal Harbour; English and Scandinavian pedigree, in the Snow on your nails).Don't miss 305/866-0311.The guards at Bal Har- with a contemporary edge. the exquisite pajama suits made of hour's ne plus ultra mall are wearing vintage chenille bedspreads. red safari jackets.Watch for couture Ho L LY W O O D Paris Folies 617 E.Las Olas Blvd., dog collars and red leather Evian car- While you're wheeling through on Fort Lauderdale;305/463-7153. Chif- riers. One turbaned woman here was your way to Sawgrass Mills. wearing, I was told, the four best Omni 411 N. Ocean Dr.,Holly- emeralds in the world. wood; 305/920-6650. Beach and Coco's Sidewalk Cafe 305/ sport things.They'll put any pic- 864-2626. For family reunions in ture you want on a T-shirt. And • sneakers and diamonds,over old- they sell the best postcards. fashioned ice cream sodas served Palm Produce 101 N. Ocean Westin Mason jars. Dr., Hollywood; 305/922-2900. Palm Beach •Palm Bal Harbour Bistro 305/861- Antonio Morrino bra dresses:like Beach 4544 You dress for lunch here. Wonder Woman in the tropics. The crowd is casing new ideas, Hakim Optical Outlet 1722 South arms over chairs,chewing on sun- N. Federal Hwy.,Hollywood;305/ •Palm Beach glass frames as models slouch 922-7300. When your glasses - •Manalapan across the patio. wear out from too much looking. Gianni Versace 305/864- . o 10 mil They'll fix anything fast—no com- o Js kmeS ° 0044. Versace and Bal Harbour plaints. Chic shades,too. N 1, speak to each other. J. W. Cooper 305/861-4180. MIZNER PARK ' Highland Have fun and try on Hairston Beach 407 Plaza Real, Boca Raton. Roberson's sparkly jacket,which, You've walked Rodeo Drive, Boca Rat n• along with the cowboy suitcases Madison Avenue; add this very and cowboy boots here,is almost pretty village to the collection. •Hillsboro enough to excuse the rather chilly Max's Grille 407/368-0080. m •Beach welcome by the staff. Foxy Monterey jack cheeseburger. J. Cornell 305/865-8787. Max Serious meat loaf.And eggs Bene- Q Mara stars here. Looks wonderful. diet,served with crab cakes. Sunrise 1 W Romanoff 305/865-1400.Vast Bolufe 407/361-8800. Biker 0 layout,with the best sexy couture. jackets for two-year-olds;LIVE TO Fort Lauderdale• ,) Galliano triumphs. Also see the RIDE chrome badges on little bags. U Roberto Cavalli jackets. Witty,made-to-order heavy leath- High Speed 305/865-1144. er.The best metal specs. •Hollywood , Sportswear for everyone. Over- Chico's 407/361-9969. Geor- -../ heard: "I'm older. Can I wear gia O'Keeffe–style long vests,kha- 1,-,. that?""All I need to know is how ki dresses.The new frontier. tall you are." CiiI •Bal Harbour The Twenty Four Collection LAS OLAS BOULEVARD, 305/868-2400. Original, offbeat FORT LAUDERDALE fashion and art. You start to say Fort Lagerfeld. It's Miami Caron Cherry 305/861-9966. become that stylish. Miami Beach Turn-of-the-millennium couture. Audace 813 E.Las Olas Blvd., Splendid Dries Van Noten cardi- Fort Lauderdale; 305/522-7503. gans and dresses, Johnny Farah Men's underwear,shorts,T-shirts. backpacks,,Barbara Bui trousers. 186 Travel & Leisure • November 1995 Map by Gregory Wakabayashi F -LORIDA 4111.111111 -3 away with only 40 Pogs and a se- and you'll keep seeing the same peo- quined baseball cap from one of the ple. (Watch—they'll mix and match, carts around the food court. switching companions from one place .irfrto the next.)Better yet,you'll see three 4r " .,�I TOWN CENTER MALL chic Palm Beach hotels. C. ". , - . 4f„.. 6000 W Glades Rd., Boca Raton; Rio Bar At the Brazilian Court Ho- 1e,"i e,� 407/368-6000. The usual suspects— tel, 301 Australian Ave., Palm Beach; iiis>1.4‘', 0 _, mssBloomie's,Polo,Saks see Bill Parks 800/552-0335 or 407/655-7740. Ro- / " ftoi at the Trish McEvoy counter for make- mantic and old-fashioned: you come , �,, up)—and some unusual boutiques. here when you're writing the novel.live Maraolo 407/391-7001. Shoes, salsa and merengue.At one table a guy �. - `i 4 ` ” shoes and,then again,shoes. lounges in a T-shirt,keeping time with " / I. Kapsiki 407/368-9094. Hand-cro- his bare feet.At another,a couple fin- x q' cheted heraldic jackets—think Uma ishes a drink;he's wearing a red jacket, playing Prince Valiant. she has on gold heels,a white Lagerfeld • pants outfit.They stand up and move w DRESSING into a sleek rumba.Men,their long gray � t;� hair in ponytails,are wearing kilts. 4 . , T H E PA R T Leopard Lounge At the Chester- 'f z \ M What not to wear tatters, anything field,363 Cocoanut Row,Palm Beach; raging new, or "any old thing." You 407/659-5800. You come here when <1 want to look like you've been here for- the novel's done and has been well re- rd � ever. Or the familyhas. When in ceived, andyou're wearinga Ralph „F * P doubt,wear a white tennis outfit.Also Lauren summer revival outfit. Under hot this minute:the Marseilles look.It the lounge's red and silver ceiling, They say die minibur involves a button-front T-shirt,wide where orchids adorn the tables,danc- k,.ti• (,R 0 ,.turf., up n belt,hair parted in the middle.Or the ing is careless,conversational—after 1.0eht so/0ewit ere. treasured Lido look: navy and white all,who could possibly be here that we Sonia Rykiel sportswear. don't know very well? Cache 305/868-1193.Sherry Hill Men don't wear socks with shoes. Polo Lounge At the Colony, 155 dresses and Bugatchi suits. As far as shoes go, you'll want kelly Hammon Ave.,Palm Beach;407/655- Exit in White 305/864-4445. green or persimmon Patrick Cox 5430. Here's where you actually meet Above-the-title sneakers. You'll give Wannabes with clear rubber soles,to the characters in the novel. Except them a lifetime contract. be worn at those grand-hotel breakfast they only talk to novelists who were buffets. Note: men who wear open reviewed by Anatole Broyard when S A W G R A S S MILLS MALL vests over T-shirts are likely to be Kafka was the rage. The guy in the 12801 W. Sunrise Blvd., Sunrise; with women in small shift dresses. red jacket turns up dancing with an- 305/846-2350. A woman disappeared other woman,wearing sequins in her for a week among the hot pink and DANCING blond hair, D'Orsay shoes, and a bougainvillea Anne Klein evening After the progressive dinner in Lau- gown with black and white ostrich jackets at the giant Saks outlet store derdale on a Friday or Saturday,drive feathers—quite fetching to the eye of in this megamall.Another went to try up to Palm Beach for a night of pro- a woman gliding by in a green turban on the little Valentino chiffon blouse gressive dancing. Move from the cocktail hat. The band kicks into and was never seen again. I met my Colony to the Chesterfield to the "Chicago,”at which point the dant- shopping Waterloo at Sawgrass,came Brazilian Court,in whichever order, ing heats up, but that's because it's bossy young woman fights with her husband. An older couple nearby are smiling, blandly tasting each other's dinners. The young woman says, I 'd like you to have a wife like that." " I did," the husband sighs. " Last time." 188 Travel & Leisure • November 1995 – .. 111 FLORIDA very late,and all feeling rather famil- iar. "They're good," the sequined B OATS woman says of the band,"but I miss In the same way you cruise AlA for Adam." "Really!" I say. Belonging. mansions,or Worth Avenue to see the These are the characters George women in their scarves and high- Hamilton used to play. heeled sandals, you also cruise the Where to find a plane. waterways for yachts. Here's InstiGa- N I G H T L I FE tor, with the alligator emblem. Here's Clematis Street is the"glam gully"of Serendipity, the Grace Kelly of yachts, West Palm Beach. Be here after mid- down from Philly.The stem of Bonnier lel night in white jeans and your wildest has two curving stairways: a Busby T-shirt.But then,by the time you read Berkeley set just waiting for the girls this, it will have leaped forward—it in bare-midriff sailor outfits. was on that edge—so out you'll go in For the rest of us, there's Isla n d full Moschino. Waves(407/642-0054)in Palm Beach, The Blue Buddha 515 Clematis between the Ritz-Carlton and Lantana Where to find your bags. St., West Palm Beach;407/832-2843. Public Beach. Rent rafts, snorkeling Cheesy seventies polyester clothes,art gear,or swift little boats:they'll run cir- T-shirts,body jewels,and hair wraps. cies around anyone's yacht. They offer beading classes on Thurs- lk day nights.Someone had six earrings G O L F in one ear. Golf on the Gold Coast is about the Café do Brasil 301 Clematis St., early morning ride to cool greens,the West Palm Beach;407/659-4700.The sun glancing low over the silver glaze artists who live in the New Colony of dew and sea; big guys with small hang out here,picking up angles. caddies marching along behind them; Respectable Street Café 518 egrets stalking the course and owls Where to find a taxi. Clematis St., West Palm Beach;407/ ruling it,scaring the crows. 832-9999. Where you want to go At the Breakers Ocean Course it's dancing-3 A.M.is as busy as noon on about the sound of church bells from . Worth Avenue.Just follow the woman Bethesda-by-the-Sea,where Jacque- in what appears to be a Versace bridle line Kennedy used to go every moth- , being led down the street past the ing,and the smell of the grass,and the j= shop selling tuxedos for kids. aroma of crisp bacon coming from the `i `i0 The Last Resort 311 Clematis clubhouse. You enter by a fountain St., West Palm Beach;407/833-8861. freshwater lake with white lilies,stop • Noted: one tanned blond Viking in under the palms,watch for balls,look Where to find a black leather pants,a medallion the up at the Australian pines to greet the great hotel. size of a shield around his neck. parrots. Glance at the hotel flags to Havana 330 Clematis St., West gauge the wind direction. With 75 locations in Palm Beach; 407/655-1434. Cuban The palm-studded course partially 24 countries,chances are food and melodrama. overlooks the stables of beige-topped, there's a Renaissance right Underground Coffee Works 105 dark-green Cadillac limousines.The Narcissus St., West Palm Beach;407/ players wear wing-tip shoes,clicking where you need one. 835-4792. Refueling cafe,for between out of the clubhouse onto the grass. Call your travel agent or • clubs. Someone's writing the Great 1-800-HOTELS-1. Underground Novel,West Beach Story: FAVORITE COURSE S Girl from the Breakers falls in love The Breakers Ocean Course Renaissance,a name you can with guy from the Last Resort; he 407/659-8407. Pros love the 12th be comfortable with?" decks her out in gauntlet body jewelry hole;it has a fox den next to it,and if and Doc Marten boots. you get there early you can see a fox 0 RENAISSANCE® ou got on Dunes, for tomorrow?" HOTELS AND RESORTS "I told them I 'm a VIP." 190 Travel & Leisure • November 1995 Havrix FLORIDA Hepatitis A Vaccine, come out to hunt squirrels."We've got i) Inactivated a few squirrels without tails," the 1 LACES THAT The only vaccine to prevent hepatitis A. golfers tell me. Florida-speak is dif- ARE A L O T ferent. From the highest hill you can BETTER THAN Hepatitis A Vaccine, Inactivated see the hotel—a view I'd say is amaz- Havplet ing. My pro says it's"real nice."The YOU THIN K See complete prescribing information in SmithKline Beecham Pharmaceuticals literature.The following is a brief summary. view at night of Palm Beach from the , INDICATIONS AND USAGE: Breakers is Havnx is indicated for active immunization "nice,poisons>2 years of age against disease caused by hepatitis A virus too." THEY L L BE Ienv) Emerald Dunes 2100 Emerald CONTIWNOICATIONS:Haven is contraindicated in people with known hypersensitivity to any component of the vaccine. Dunes Dr., West PalmBeach;407/687- Museum of Discovery & Science WARNINGS:Do not give additional injections to patients experiencing hypersensitivity reactions after aHavzixinjection (See CONTRAINDICA- 1700. The Ritz-Carlton sends guests and Blockbuster IMAX Theater TIONS.) to this g+challenfi in award-winning, 401 S.W.Second St., auFort Lauderdale; Hepatitis A has a relatively long incubation period.Hepatitis A vaccine may e not prevent hepatitis A infection in those who have an unrecognized hep- well-kept course designed by Tom 305/467-6637. Especially for the atitis A infection at the time of vaccination.Additionally,it may not prevent infection in those who do not achieve protective antibody titers(although Fazio.Reservations are as hard toget weightless Space Trip.Perfect for kids the lowest titer needed to confer protection has not been determined). g P P PRECAUTIONS:As with any Parenteral vaccine(1)keep epinephrine as the 50-foot Superdune is to play. when it's raining and you're tired of available for use in case of anaphylaxis or anaphylactoid reaction.(2)delay administration,if possible.in people with any febrile illness oractive infec. Boca Raton Resort & Club 501 the shops.Until you see the great sou- tion,except when the an believes withholding vaccine entails the E. Real, Boca Raton; 407/ venir store here. greater risk(3)take alll known precautions to prevent adverse reactions. Camino ear including reviewing patients'history for hypersensitivity to this or similar 447-3411. You want to be Lotte Neu- Stranahan House 335 S.E. Sixth vaccines. Administer with caution to people with thrombocytopenia orableeding dis- mann to deal with the 18th island Ave., Fort Lauderdale;305/524-4736: order,or people taking anticoagulants.Do not inject into a blood vessel. Use a separate,sterile needle or prefilled syringe for every patient.When green on the Joe Lee–designed Coun- Turn-of-the-century fur trading post: giving concomitantly with other vaccines or IG.use separate needles and different injection sites. try Club course, 15 minutes away by the main building was constructed in As with any vaccine.if administered to immunosuppressed persons or per- free shuttle bus. The Resort course 1901, restored in 1984. Salty charm sons receiving imrnunosuppressive therapy.the expected immune response may not be obtained. has wide fairways but is still chal- gives resonance to today's Lido look. Carcinogenesis,Mutagenesis,Impeirnunt of Fertility:Havrix has not been evaluated for its carcinogenic potential,mutagenic potential or paten- lenging. I remember when my father Henry Morrison Flagler Mu- tial for impairment of fertility. Pregnancy Category C:Animal reproduction studies have not been con- played here with Tommy Armour,so seum 1 Whitehall Way, Palm Beach; ducted with Haifa It is also not known whether Havnx can cause fetal cominghere now is like hittinga ball 407/655-2833.The gift of a creative man harm when administered to a pregnant woman or can affect reproduction capacity.Give Havnx to a pregnant woman only if clearly needed It is not in Yankee Stadium. to the woman he loved—from the days known whether Havnx is excreted in human milk.Because many drugs are y excreted in human milk,use caution when administering Havrixto a nuts- PGA National Resort 400 Avenue when love came with protection.Rooms ing woman. Henna is well tolerated and highly immunogenic and effective in children. of the Champions, Palm Beach Gar- are as big as railroad stations.Don't miss Fully inform patients,parents or guardians of the benefits and risks of immunization with Havdens; 407/627-200Q. Five champi- the wrought-iron dollhouse furniture, For persons traveling to endemic or epidemic areas,consult current CDC advisories regarding specific locales.Travelers onshipcourses. Doget the place-card holders, the miniature should take all necessary precautions to avoid contact with.or ingestion of. allyou can to contaminated food or water.Duration of immunity following a complete vaccination schedule has not been established on the green.Even though they say it's trains.Also,delightful souvenirs. ADVERSE REACTIONS:Haven has beeo generally well tolerated As with just for hotel guests and pros. Bonnet House 900 N. Birch Rd., all pharmaceuticals,however,it is possible that expanded commercial use of the vaccina could reveal rare adverse events. Palm Beach Polo Club 11809 Fort Lauderdale;305/563-5393.This The most frequently reported by volunteers in clinical trials was injection- Polo Club Rd. West Palm Beach;407/ 1920's mansion—with its own site soreness(56%of adults:15%of children):headache 114%of adults: zcolony less than 5%of children).Other solicited and unsolicited events are listed 798-7020. You'll want cream flannels, of squirrel monkeys—evokes a time- lncideece 1%to 10%of Injections:Induration, redness. swelling; a title,and an introduction.You might less,haunting love story.And appro- fatigue,fever(>37.5°C).malaise;anorexia,nausea. Inside's' <1% of Injections: Hematonta, pruritus, rash, urticaria: hear,in the distance,the thundering priately so: Evelyn Fortune Bartlett, pharyngitis,other upper respiratory tract infections;abdominal pain,diar- of noble o ollatermight for whomthe housebuilt byher rhea.dysgeusia.vomiting:arthralgia,elevation of creatine phosphokinase. P ponies; +you mg was myalgia: lymphadenopathy,hypertonic episode.insomnia,photophobia, ride the romantic trails under whis- husband,still lives here for part of the vertigo Additional safety data were obtained from a field efficacy trial in which pering blue cypress trees. year.She's 108. • 19,037 children received the pediatric dose of Havnx.The most commonly reported adverse events were injection-site pain(9.5%)and tenderness (8.1%).reported following first doses of Havnx.Other adverse events were infrequent and comparable to the control vaccine Engerix-B°(Hepatitis B Vaccine,Recombinantly Postaarketing Reports:Rare voluntary reports of adverse events in pee- pe receiving Hawn(since market introductionctidrer includes thmn lellce;syncope; local- t feels like i t was both local- ized edema;anaphylaxis/anaphylactoid reactions,somnolence;syrtcepe; jaundice, hepatitis; erythema multiforme, hyperhydrosis, angioedema: • dyspneas lymphadenopathy;convulsions,encephalopathy,dizziness, neu- • oparesthesia.Guillain-Barre syndrome,multiple sclerosis, abnormality. last year and only an hour ago The U.S.Department of Health and Human Services has established the Vaccine Adverse Events Reporting System(VAERS)to accept reports of sus- pected adverse events after the administration of any vaccine,including, you're getting in the car f o r but not limited to, the reporting of events required by the National Childhood Vaccine Injury Act of 1986.The toll-free number for VAERS forms and information D1300ELU70.5 ag the airport, watching as someone HOW SUPPLIED:360 EL U./0.5 mL NDC 58160.83601 Package of 1 single.dose vial. 1440 E :NDC 58160.83501 Package of 1 single-dose vial,NDC else arrives, their eyes squinting a t 581608350235-02Package of t prefilied syringe. Manufactured by SmithKline Beecham Biologicals Rixensart,Belgium Distributed by SmithKline Beecham Pharmaceuticals the new sun—their vacation about Philadelphia,PA 19101 BRS—HA:L3A ©SmithKline Beecham,1995 to begin as yours is ending. Havrix is a registered trademark of SmithKline Beecham. • 192 Travel 8. Leisure • November 1995