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playing the "wrong stuff." To the Editor: We have just returned ~"
However, the hijacked heroes, from the journey described by Adam . Nix
d benefit knew theywere doomed. Their
Cie "Fly Clymer in "Traveling Like a Mag `' 47k .Y
choice was whether to allow the nate" (Sept.23)on the Royal Canadi- -I ,.
S," (Oct.
death of even more innocents or to an Pacific,called the Golden/Crows- "" • � _ ,.
the inter fight back and save lives. nest Excursion. 4fi '
.ents and Regular Joes like me deciding It was, as he said, a trip fora x
, ,
leads will about flying or visiting Disneyland railroad magnate: luxurious, grand,
lople will � ' Richard Patterson for The New Y
face a different choice.We know that beautiful and fieri. The Canadian
safe, not danger still lurks and will probably Rockies are magnificent and the true Fresh fish and shellfish on display for diners or for takeout at Captain Jim's,North Mia
surface eventually.If we feel likelier inspiration for the school of painters
baggage to be home to kiss the kids good night called the Group of Seven, who
;, airline by playing it safe (whatever that worked in the 1920's and 30's. The Down-to-earth eating spots
filing and means), we're not displayingthe Continued From Page 6
train itself was a work of art,with its
.e airport. wrong stuff. It's the human stuff. polished wood and brass furnishings
SHOLLER Given a choice like that faced by theand its gentle sound on the tracks. By tank-top Beach standards,Azul I don't know about you,but the with a small indoor sitting are
'ork,N.Y. heroes,we might be just as heroic. MARILYN AND JACK WEiL is as formal as a Miami restaurant fashionable oxygen of Miami Beach outdoor picnic tables under the
MiLDRED L. DAWSON Evanston, Ill. gets, a place where some men actu- strikes me as lighter than real air.If roofs preserves a feeling of ole
Maitland, Fla. • ally wear ties, and where a whisper I breathe it for too long,I become un- ida.
To the Editor: The chart entitled speaks louder than a shout.Behind a tethered and feel as if I'm floating The Pit clings to tradition,c
a "How Punctual Is Amtrak?" (Tray- small display of pristine fish on ice away.The high-end restaurants can barbecue the old-fashioned WE
ricer's de- A. Loaf of Bread el Advisory, Sept. 9) inspired me to and a dazzling waterfall is a hand- produce the same effect,with their slowly over cool smoke.It is b
he Frank- write about the excellent experience some open kitchen, where you may luxury ingredients and elevated known for its meaty,mildly sr
e in Hyde To the Editor: Regarding the arti- my husband and I had in April,when recognize the chef, Michelle Bern- prices.Luckily,the Miami area has pork spare ribs,burnished un1
reasures," des with the headline "Following we took Amtrak around the United stein, from her appearances on the more than a few down-to-earth joints most crisp outside,still ruddy
i first visit French Traces in Vietnam" (Sept. States. Starting with the Crescent in Food Network. While the dining worth visiting if,like me,you want to I thought the ribs were pretty
ring in my 9), there is something more basic New York City,we arrived on time in room is nice enough, I prefer the keep your feet on the ground. but I really liked the thin slice
beautiful partpork barbecue,with their inte
that is of Vietnam culture. New Orleans. The Sunset Limited serene,almost private balcony in the
•ed by an On a trip about two years ago to from New Orleans arrived one hour rear, overlooking shimmering Bis- Tap Tap smoky,almost hammy flavor
wheelchair Hanoi,we visited the Army Museum. earlier than scheduled in Los Ange- cayne Bay. You won't have to go far to visit catfish was superb,as was a I
fficult and At the entrance was a sculpture les.The Coast Starlight was on time At her best, Ms. Bernstein, whose Tap Tap,a lively,colorful Haitian cubed potato salad and sweet
climbed. made from parts of downed Ameri- from Los Angeles into Seattle. menu changes frequently,is capable restaurant slightly off the spangled cued beans.You'll need plent;
t the front can planes.It was an emotional expe- Our trip on the Empire Builder of works of art on a plate. A simple path in South Beach.Prices are rock- ,napkins,though.
yone using rience for my wife and me because it from Seattle to Chicago was disrupt- green salad, too often a restaurant, bottom,but the five dining rooms are p
Ca twin Jim's Seafood
icted to a represented the deaths of many ed by floods, but was completed on toss-away, is for her an opportunity as bright and attractive as can be,
sought out young men. time by bus from St.Paul-Minneapo- to achieve a small perfection. and the staff is welcoming. Market and Restauran
home site, Outside the gates were a few eld- lis to Chicago. The final leg, on the Tender,almost succulent greens are Haitian standards are excellent, This little market and rest
etic to my erly ladies selling baguettes.We also Lake Shore Limited from Chicago to the basis, with candied walnuts, like a fine iambi creole,made with on an unlovely commercial s''
the facility saw many bicyclists carrying them. New York City,was on time. poached Asian pears and ricotta sa- nutty conch pounded until tender and North Miami,serves amazin
rookhoven. Long after the cafes have closed, A wonderful trip in every way — lata. Hamachi tataki is an equally fine rice and beans.I like it spicy, good,simply prepared fish a1
he front of and the hotels have become shopping service, sleeping car accommoda- light and satisfying composition, and,augmented with a fiery scotch fish.The kitschy fishing net s
show him malls, I think the only reminder of tions and an unequaled view of parts with lush slices of tuna,seared at the bonnet pepper sauce,it was just der decor don't raise expecte
French influence will be the ba- of the United States accessible only edges, at the bottom of an intricate right.I also liked the griyo,chunks of nor do the bags of plastic ute.
ivitation to guette. JOSEPH CORBEN by train. ROSALIE LICHTBLAU arrangement of cucumber slaw, pork marinated in garlic,lemon and dropped on the table,but win
ition,which Longboat Key, Fla. Benson,Vt. sweet beet slices and pickled daikon, spices,boiled and then fried until friendly waiter offers a pape
united by a grapefruit-ponzu sauce. crisp. of fabulous peppery crab sal
• A special appetizer of soft-shell crab, Tap Tap subscribes to a general- crackers for you to try while
fried until barely crisp,is as delicate ized Caribbean bar menu and not the menu,you know Captain
and sweet as can be, served over a only serves good mojitos but can also more important talents than
sublime potato salad and garnished pour a fine pint of Guinness stout. decoration.
•;. • . 1 with watermelon, the perfect extra Finish with tiny cups of thick Haitian Fried shrimp are delicious
. ; flavor. coffee. shrimpy while fried grouper
• • Main course ingredients are su ceedingly fresh and flavorfu
` .a„ perb,but they don't match the appe- The Pit Bar B-Q puppies are light and grease
titers for clarity and precision. When the Pit Bar B-Q opened the iced tea pitcher is bottor
74%.; ,, Though a waiter warns that Jamai- many years ago,it was in the middle And if that crab salad was tc
' ,,° can jerk tuna is very spicy, it packs of nowhere southwest of the city of leave behind,you can alway
-»�rR as much heat as a fruit salad,though Miami.Now,nowhere is beginning to a pound at the market to tali
tet ` 3.' it's a fine piece of fish. close in on The Pit,with suburban en- even if you're going by plan
` • Similarly, though slow-braised ERIC
g croachments.Still,this little cabin
. • short ribs are remarkably tender,
meaty and delicious, a Thai chili
• component is absent, despite the
menu description. Whole turbot is ment of smoked black bean couscous recently opened Mark's Sol
filleted before it arrives, a disap- didn't taste at all smoked. in the newly renovated He
CELEBRATE FAMILY pointmentto those of us who appreci- Wish's extensive wine list is fairly Perhaps more publicly tl
priced,with offbeatyet superb offer- star chefs with multiple kite
ate spectacle,but it's moist and deli- �
THIS YEAR AT SEA ISLAND cately flavorful,nicely matched with ings like a round, minerally white turned over the reins in the
fennel and ginger-and-lemon conf it. Greco di Tufo from Feudi di San an executive chef,Tim Anc
WITH AN OLD-FASHIONED HOLIDAY. The wine list offers variety,but at Gregorio($38).Desserts don't live up Apart from an outdoor d
high prices. While a steely dry Alsa- to the rest of the meal. Stylized abutting three small pools..
tian riesling from Pierre Sparr is s'mores, prefabricated and frozen, dining room of Mark's So'
moderately priced and satisfying at are served rock hard. Neither apple- offers few visual clues to it
sister on Sea Island, we've games with family and friends. Golf on $39,you might consider splurging$70 raisin empanadas nor dulce de leche Just past the spare Nash
on the more profound Cuvee Frede- mule feuilles rate more than a few room is a festival of m
ming guests for nearly 75 three spectacular courses, tennis on 25 ric-Emile riesling from Trimbach. bites, though I'd consider another glossy wood, with a low c
h adds up to a lot of holiday courts, horseback riding on the beach, Geared toward fruits, Azul's des- helping of chili-spiced watermelon. seems to transform ordu
serts are surprisingly homey for into bedlam,no matter haFnions, weddings, anniver- relaxing in a wonderful spa, trap and such a bastion of cool. Roasted pine- Mark's South Beach pee are eating. With the ac
family vacations. Discover skeet shooting, guided nature tours, apple gratin was nothing so much as Mark Militello,a superstar Florida dance club sound track,M;
er's "Twelve Days of fishing inshore and offshore, dining a delicious pineapple upside-down as tranquil as a Nascar
'- a celebration of family, on sumptuous cuisine and relaxing in
cake in elegant trappings, while chef who owns several restaurants, The changing Meditelis
humble-sounding little banana
nd good cheer. Rediscover beautifully appointed guest rooms and spired menu can seem
dumplings are luscious. so,
of Christmas Past, with suites at The Cloister and The Lodge sometimes absurdly so,ass:
t caroling, gingerbread at Sea Island Golf Club, a AAA Five Wish Bill of fare tizer squab with honey squ
, yule log ceremonies, Diamond Award recipient. Celebrate The Hotel, designed by Todd Old- greens and crushed game
It neglects to say whether
egant dinners and fun and your holiday this year at Sea Island. ham of fashion fame, offers a rare pnThe prices are averages for two vise was used on that 1
�t4 South Beach combination of winsome le and include a modest bottle of Regardless, the neat slice
F>.'•• likability and lack of attitude. Wish, wine ora couple of drinks,but not tax werea pleasantly gamy and
THE C LOISTER its restaurant,occupies an appealing and tip.All these restaurants accept was light.
outdoor space in which you can dine major credit cards. squash for feathery star
under huge white umbrellas. Rumi,330 Lincoln Road,South butsparkling matchefor they of
QqL/ jd' It's hard for me to imagine a better Beach; (305)672-4353.Dinner only;
or more clever appetizer than thatsnapper poached in olive
closed Monday.The lounge is open et full of flavor, paired
Sea Island,Georgia 31561 created by E. Michael Reidt, Wish's Thursday to Saturday until the last Y
chef since April — pan-seared-seal- marinated peppers. By <
(800) SEA ISLAND www.seaisland.com customer leaves.Dinner,$130. lasagnette made with the
lops over lighter-than-air brandade g
de morue,the French salt-cod prepa- Azul,Mandarin Oriental Hotel,500 goat's milk ricotta and
ration to which he adds shrimp and Brickell Key Drive,Brickell Key,Mi- rooms was dry and trains
IIriTTti�ZA ami; (305)913-8358.Lunch Monday Yellowtail snapper n
i800Cheapao corn. Each flavor seems ttdeepen to Friday,dinner Monday to Satur-
OF THE czAlis and lengthen in the mouth before password at Mark's. As
e tie'FRANKFURT 130 St.P•tsrsburg,Moscow•8 Days da closed Sunday.Dinner,$165.
101r0,/OSAKA24R 0599 • • melding together. Another appetizer, Y. petizer, a main course c
,o•IAMAS/UVrw ss° out the whimsical "Last of Summer- Wish,The Hotel,801 Collins Ave- snapper, moist flesh ne
ROq/AW ss° Major Airlines •erVOcafio„ earthy potato ( ) crisp skin, was full of fl<
cuA�,/uwI ISO /First of Fall," is an nue,South Beach; 305 674 9474.
LIN[JOSE/PAWN al Q O L O E N P R A O O E last Minute Specialists Packages! glassY: over shrimp and broccoli
[JUNI/61E0C 10 »499 salad served with a shot of Breakfast and lunch Bail dinner
5A1A0N"sTuesday yMonday. tangy mustard broth. R
rrI11JvMe000 b RRINOIO EARTH puréed wild mushrooms, a sort of to Sunda closed
,uuays,°I•T aSo v,l....Y.n.al•.or.ol..r I/3001.DI ocM1.1 11200.1 800-243-2724 DOWN TO EARTH
rill 1010/11MIK 3...
SOOMU a F//7!)fi/R
Ma Eastern. ._ rich and luxurious liquefied cocktail Dinner,$130. fish salmon, bathed in
FLORIDA/�JUTA180 t0E 3954Nvv York,NY 10016 www.MrvalbrovOt0.O of earth and wood.Against these two, Mark's South Beach,Hotel Nash, garlic and olive oil sauce
Ar""�'DA"1B0 212-683-8930.800-339-6967 steak tartare with ginger and fried 1120 Collins Avenue,Miami Beach; flower, put ordinary
rot,,s13,50° � : I ' o/=, capers seems almost rosaic,though IN tTNOPS A);4 ` p P g (305)604-9050.Lunch and dinner dai- shame,while filet migno
, 1n it has a bright,tropical quality. 1 Dinner,$160. pepper-imbued spaetzle
,A r"'°'�I`CII "' LAST MINUTE DOMESTIC FARE Y �p� p
��" `' "' ••Discounted domestic first class•• OYer12 different tours Among the main courses, fish Tap Tap,819 Fifth Street,South acteristically beefy witt
TLNNE No advance-No minimum mileage accrued . stars,with top billing going to a fine, Beach; (305)672-2898.Lunch Mon- petted tenderness. An a
Pum Discounted Business&First Class to •..sfarttin $i i99•
9 TAX thick piece of tuna served over a day to Friday,dinner daily.Dinner, Willamette Valley pine
1.247-6578 Europe Orient Australia tropical slaw of jicama and quina.
TEL:800.295-3436 or 212-682-2748 1-800-701-TOUR FI,FaxttFrE Poking through the slaw is a wedge of $45' Lange ($38) was a fine r
FAX:212.682 4663 watermelon, and the dish's real sur- The Pit Bar B-Q,16400 Southwest fish.
L T&T Airtareclomestic.com Ei hth Street(Tamiami Trail),Mi- Desserts are of the s
prise comes when you find the mel- g
SCARSE T SERVICE pker:.:"C ":,:rloe
jon's been spiced with chili, a piquant ami; (305)226-2272.Lunch and din- where, not content simp
SCARS INSURANCE CAICf . • 0,5,11kSCar•n6rulR.1.,' FIRST& BUSINESS CLASS ner daily.Dinner,$39. the pastry chef has to pi
'385.COM OR CAII R•a•TKAVEL contrast to the tuna. Pan-roasted
' AT NO GNA*O[I ..., ^„,_-.X5,51 South America.,sz� cowl Mica......s370 grouper in caviar butter is unalloyed Captain Jim's Seafood Market and thing three ways. Henc
.249 INDIA 499 Tel Ivey............$289 WestAMca..-....$375 1 / (� i� nn Restaurant,12950 West Dixie High- tage of chocolates," in 349 BELIZE 199 N08:0• ---.--- "sea csaces_.......$299 Nairotr..........._..$410 11 ORID11.IUF, DIS('OUN I S creamy richness, while thick rounds
399 SANTIAGOAAIRES 199 Aired 7ub..-..-..... Australia $53t T. _._.-_..$289
229 B.AIRES 199 — of leg of lamb are tender and flavor- way,North Miami; (305)892-2812. ningly good hazelnut a
I4 599 MEXICO 49 IINGrysTi_.$13AS21. WWW.RATRAVEL.COIW�{.....!,' 212-268-9088 800-626.4449
499 149 LE IVnnr-S130i2l P..%saw;W.R rz^RAAI VE�r^°•'••^ ful, nicely accented with mint and Lunch and dinner Monday to Statur terrine is sabotagedby t
__-.--__Si, 800.788.0777 212.633.8300 coriander, although its acco ;pani- day;closed Sunday.Dinner,$';;. cre sidekic's.
7501800.711.8039 ,
I
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