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Then I called my friend Laura, who lives nearby. "Want to speed-walk on
the boardwalk?" she asked. The Miami Beach boardwalk runs from about
. 21st Street to 47th, along the Atlantic Ocean -- it's a terrific place for jogging
and strolling.
But I hesitated, for I was a few steps away from the gym I usually use when
I'm in town, Idol's, a serious weight lifter's hangout that has one of the
cheapest rates -- $10 -- for a day pass of any gym I've found in South Beach.
The boardwalk, and companionship,won.
As we walked, I realized that there's something special about a place that
you travel to over and over. A familiar rhythm sets in, as you revisit places
that you've discovered on previous trips, or walk along a block to find out
what has changed. I let that flow take over, moving from morning coffee to
exercise to lunch (penne arrabiata, an arugula salad, wine and coffee for $17
at Rosinella on Lincoln Road).
High winds and cloudy skies made for perfect shopping weather -- I stayed on Lincoln, scouring
the sale racks at Banana Republic (in a beautiful old bank, this branch has some of the best
bargains I've seen at the chain). At Neo Scarpa, an Italian shoe store, I scored big: the red Prada
sneakers I've been wanting for more than nine months were there, marked down to half price.
At home I'd feel guilty about spending a day doing nothing but shopping, exercising, booking a
massage and eating. In Miami Beach I feel as if I've done my duty.
Over the next couple of days the clouds grew thicker, the warm wind blowing now in great gusts,
some of them loaded with rain. Walking became unpleasant, so I took advantage of the little
tourist trolley bus that loops around South Beach, stopping at various sites of interest (the ride
costs 50 cents), including the Wolfsonian Museum. Built mainly to house rotating exhibitions
culled from the collection of Mitchell Wolfson, who is a fan of modernist design, it is a little gem
of a place. For nearly two hours I forgot about the tropical storm outside, intrigued by the
marvelous selection of industrial, architectural and art objects on display -- from 1930's radios to
pieces of trim salvaged from an early 20th-century movie theater in Buffalo.
Afterward I ducked into Nemo, my favorite restaurant in South Beach. As usual, they delivered
an intriguing, satisfying meal: a wok-seared salmon, crispy outside, rare within, set atop a salad
of sprouts and sautéed pumpkin seeds. With a glass of Grgich Hills California fume blanc, and a
dessert of three different flans, delivered jiggling on a plate, my "splurge" lunch came to about
$35.
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Lunch cheered me, for the storm now was really moving in. When I checked into the nearly
empty Raleigh, the desk clerk(probably feeling sorry for me) upgraded me to one of the best
ocean-front rooms. It had a king bed, linoleum floors, an Art Deco wooden desk adorned with a
black-and-white photograph of a sassy Brigitte Bardot, and a huge picture window with a view
of the beautifully tiled, scalloped-edge pool where I had fantasized spending Sunday afternoon
swimming.
Instead, I sat by the window and sighed as immense waves crashed into the shore, creeping
closer and closer. The red pinwheel on the Weather Channel was headed to the Bahamas, but its
long arms extended as far as Miami Beach.
Laughing at my bad luck, I looked hard for the ray of sunshine and found it. For as many times
as I'd been to Miami Beach, this was something new: I'd never slept through a hurricane. I fell
into the deepest slumber, lulled by the howling wind and the slap of warm rain across the
window.
The bottom line by the sea
In South Beach I spent about $187 a day for four days and nights, including hotels, meals,
massage, gym and museum admissions, and entertainments,
Air Fare
My Miami Beach trip was a stopover on a round-trip ticket from New York to Buenos Aires and
Rio de Janeiro, which cost $779.57, including taxes, on Ale United Airlines Web site,
www.united.com.
Hotels
The trendy Albion Hotel, 1650 James Avenue, (305) 913-1000, fax (305) 674-0507,
www.rubellhotels .com, offers large rooms with minimalist gray decor(built in 1939, the hotel
was completely renovated in 1997). It is a long block from the beach, so there aren't any ocean
views, but there's a large pool. My standard room, booked through www.hoteldiscounts.com,
cost $91 with tax.
The Raleigh Hotel, 1775 Collins Avenue, (305) 534-6300, fax (305) 538-8140,
www.raleighhotel.com, built in 1940, is a great old gem of a waterfront Art Deco hotel, with a
large ocean-front pool. I booked a standard room through Hotel Discounts ($160 with tax) and
was upgraded to an ocean-front room -- larger but similarly furnished with king or double bed,
linoleum floor, vintage furniture and a small bathroom with tub and shower.
Food
2
At Nemo, 100 Collins Avenue, (305) 532-4550, lunch cost around $35 with a glass of wine and
dessert.
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At Rosinella, 525 Lincoln Road, (305) 672-8777, lunch with salad, pasta, a bottle of Pellegrino
and a glass of wine costs around $18.
Coffee and a bagel with cream cheese at Joffrey's, 660 Lincoln Road near Euclid, (305) 673-
5474, costs about $3.
What to Do
At the new OM Spa, 844 Alton Road, (305) 695-0800, I received an excellent hourlong massage
for $60.
Idol's Gym, 715 Lincoln Lane North, (305) 532-0089, has a day rate of$10.
The Wolfsonian, 1001 Washington Avenue, (305) 531-1001, fax (305) 531-2133,
www.wolfsonian.org, holds a fascinating collection of art and other objects from 1885 to 1945.
Closed Wednesday. Admission is $5; free on Thursday after 6. DAISANN McLANE
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