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mh TIME HUMBLES ART DECO LADY, BUT SHE STILL STANDS TALL 06/21/1997
THE MIAMI HERALD
Copyright (c) 1997, The Miami Herald
DATE: Saturday, June 21, 1997 EDITION: Final
SECTION: Living PAGE: 1G LENGTH: 148 lines
ILLUSTRATION: color photo: La Normandie fountain display at the Fontainebleau
Hilton; photo: La Normandie fountain display at the Fontainebleau Hilton (a)
SOURCE/CREDIT LINE: DIANE KOLYER Herald Staff Writer
MEMO: see ROAD MAP and WHERE ARE THEY NOW? and coming Sunday at end
TIME HUMBLES ART DECO LADY, BUT SHE STILL STANDS TALL
Miami Beach, capital of Art Deco, has one treasure few people ever see: a
bronze French maiden, draped like the goddess Athena -- but with a 1930s
hairdo.
She is the only major sculpture from the dazzling French luxury liner
Normandie in the United States outside of New York.
And she has quite a past. She once stood at the top of the grand staircase
of the Normandie, the largest and fastest ocean liner of 1935. At her feet,
industrialists networked over brandy and cigars.
On the French liner, princes and celebrities ate in a dining room longer
than the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles, lounged in custom-woven
Aubusson-upholstered chairs, exchanged bon mots under chandeliers by Lalique.
Today the bronze maiden -- La Normandie she's called -- has a humbler life:
She stands between two potted palms in a remote lobby in the Fontainebleau
Hilton's spa building, presiding over bellhops pushing luggage carts and
guests rustling past with beach bags. No one stops to read the little plaque
that tells her story.
And that's a shame, says Morris Lapidus, the 94-year-old architect of the
Fontainebleau who saved the statue from the scrap heap in 1954. "It certainly
doesn't deserve to be in a little hotel lobby. It belongs in a museum. "
Her last voyage
The bronze maiden's shift of fate began when the Normandie docked at Pier
88 in New York on Aug. 28, 1939. World War II was four days away. The luxury
liner never sailed again.
La Normandie and the other Art Deco treasures were removed in 1941 before
work began to convert the vessel into a troop transport. A fire a month later
put an end to that plan. In 1946 the hulk was towed across the Hudson River to
New Jersey, where the $60 million ocean liner was reduced to $161,000 worth of
scrap metal.
Thousands of newspaper and magazine articles and several books have told
the ship's sad story. Yet no one seems to know where the huge --
7-foot-8-inch, 1,000-pound -- statue was for the 13 years before Lapidus found
her in 1954.
In that year, the Fontainebleau was under construction, already famous for
its stunningly curved shape. The lobby was nearing completion, and Lapidus
went shopping in New York with $100, 000 the hotel owners had allocated for
decorative objects.
Among other things, he was looking for a large statue for a fountain
between the pool deck and formal gardens. Someone told him about the big
bronze from the Normandie that was at a Manhattan scrap yard.
The statue was just what Lapidus wanted. He paid only for the value of the
metal, which the scrap dealer quoted after weighing it: "He said, '$1,200, '
and I said, 'You've got a deal. ' I just bought it; I didn't know what I had. "
What he had was one of three major statues commissioned for the Normandie.
This one was by Art Deco sculptor Leon-Georges Baudry, whose name is cut
deeply into La Normandie 's base in block letters. Lapidus said he never
noticed the name. "I did not see that. As a matter of fact, I've never seen
it. "
Bronze lady gets a new home
Lapidus shipped the statue to Miami Beach in a tractor-trailer with other
decorative objects he had bought for the hotel.
La Normandie took her place of honor high above the gardens, and stayed for
more than 20 years. In the late '70s, she was moved into the main lobby, first
to the Gigi Room, later called the Dining Galleries, and then to the Tropigala
Club.
Lisa Cole, the hotel's public relations director, said that in 1995, the
statue was moved to the guest lobby of the spa building and the building
renamed "Normandie. " The little lobby was redone in an Art Deco motif to
complement the statue.
"I think it's a very nice place for it, " Cole said.
Art Deco aficionados and ocean liner experts hive mixed feelings.
"After a couple of visits to the Fontainebleau, I was able to actually
find the statue, " said Ben Olson of Milwaukee, an ocean liner fan who travels
to South Florida regularly on business. "She seems quite out of place in the
small lobby, but it is quiet and a great place for reflection on her
once-great home. "
John Christie, an English professor at Indiana State University and a ship
fan who has done extensive research on La Normandie, says the statue has a
problem: It's "hotel art. "
"It's not what you would call a great piece of art, " he said.
"Knowledgeable people would say she's mannish, and people at the hotel make
fun of her big feet. "
Christie thinks the Fontainebleau ownership has done its best to find a
proper setting for La Normandie, but it's hard.
"They've tried to do honorably by creating the special Art Deco lobby.
They've tried other places, but those places just didn't work. It's a big
statue. "
A part of history
What, then, is to become of her? Will La Normandie stay in her remote
lobby, or perhaps be sold?
Artifacts relating to the star-crossed ship are much in demand. At an ocean
liner memorabilia sale last November in New York, Christie's East auction
house sold a pair of needlepoint side chairs from the Normandie's grand salon
for $12,650 and two gilt-bronze plaques from the first-class dining room for
$11,500 each. Items do not even have to have been on the ship -- any
connection is worth money: An advertising poster for the ship -- a 1935
lithograph by Adolphe Cassandre -- went for $12,650.
Cole said a Christie's representative once told her that La Normandie could
bring $250,000 to $500,000 at auction. The statue was insured for $1 million
while on loan to the Bass Museum during a 1993 exhibit.
But Fontainebleau owner Steven Muss said La Normandie is not for sale.
"The statue is a part of the history of the hotel, " he said.
"It is history. It is art history, " Lapidus said. "It is not serving any
purpose where it is. It should be in a museum. It would be a very generous
thing for Steve Muss to choose one, to designate where it should go. When I
see him, I'll tell him. "
ROAD MAP
Want to visit La Normandie ? The directions:
Enter the main lobby of the Fontainebleau Hilton at 4441 Collins Ave.,
Miami Beach, and take the escalator to the basement. Continue in this
direction to the automatic doors leading outside.
Turn right at the sign to the Spa/Health Club, go past the tennis courts,
up the ramp and into the lobby. The statue can't be missed.
The same lobby can be approached from the Normandie Building's street
entrance at 4391 Collins Ave. The awning announces the Fontainebleau Hilton
Spa, and a sign says "Members Only, " but the door is open.
At the circular reception desk, turn left, go up several steps and walk to
the other end of the hall to the hotel annex's lobby.
WHERE ARE THEY NOW?
La Normandie was one of three large sculptures commissioned for the
Normandie by Compagnie Generale Transatlantique -- the French Line.
La Paix (Peace) , which towered over diners in the first-class dining room
at 18 feet, including the base, found its final resting place in the "Garden
of Normandie" at Pinelawn Memorial Park, a Long Island, N.Y., cemetery.
The third piece, called Neptune, was supposed to be the highlight of the
Normandie's aft promenade. However, the enormous piece was too heavy for the
ship. Instead, it became the centerpiece for the port of Le Havre, France,
where it greets English Channel ferries and an occasional cruise ship.
living COMING SUNDAY
Morris Lapidus was one of the foremost architects of the '50s. This, we
know. He made design history with the Fontainebleau. This, we know. Now 94, he
lives in Miami Beach. This, we know.
What we don't know is: What's his pad like?
Find out Sunday when the Home section brings you At Home With . . . Morris
Lapidus. cutlines
Fontainebleau Hilton
HOME WITH A VIEW: For 20 years, La Normandie stood in a fountain display
between the pool deck and formal gardens at the Fontainebleau Hilton, the site
Morris Lapidus intended as the statue's home.
FRANK BRAYNARD JR. / Picture History of the Normandie MARICE COHN BAND /
Herald Staff
STANDING WATCH: In her past life, La Normandie , at left, overlooked the
grand staircase of the Normandie ocean liner. Right, La Normandie now occupies
a spot in the lobby of the spa at the Fontainebleau Hilton in Miami Beach.
Credit for picture at left
TAG: 9706240064
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