1675-13 Raleigh Hotel 1 i' \ ;
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March 2004
CHEF ER ICRIPERT
brings Le Bernardin attitude to
Miami Beach's Raleigh Hotel
IN THE KITCHEN ,,'i/ 1. y
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at
Raleigh round.Eric
Ripen with hotelier
Andre Balazs at 1 €- "What did I do to
their new Miami
Reach venture. i ''' '‘- -- understand the
Raleigh's dynamic?
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got drunk and came
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want at 5 a.m.after
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_ --� • didn't see sushi, but
Apru
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aF maybe a little ceviche
I '
OD kill the hangover.
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11VEnternationally renowned,accolade-laden kill the hangover or some rib eye with good
chef Eric Ripert is the latest big-name fries.Out by the pool you can order truffle
notch on South Florida's culinary belt: popcorn with Parmesan, which is perfect
Four months ago,the 39-year-old execu- when you're outside at the bar drinking tequi-
tive chef of New York's Le Bernardin took la.I'm adding elegant French culinary touches
over all food operations for hotelier André Bal- to some of Miami's Latin-influenced dishes.
azs'Raleigh,including the current terrace and Tell me about your background and how
poolside menus and an upscale,indoor dining it influenced you from a gourmet point of
room slated to debut this fall.The Antibes- view.
born recipient of four New York Times stars My father is from Provence and my mother is
and James Beard's national Outstanding Chef from Nice, where they incorporate a lot of
Award is now setting all of Miami Beach abuzz Mediterranean-style cooking.I have also been
with delectable signature patio nibbles influenced by Spanish and Italian foods, as
(Parmesan truffle popcorn and fries)and casu- well as cuisine from Morocco,where I devel-
al dinner entrees (thyme-seared yellowfin oped a passion for flavors such as cumin.
tuna with black truffles and cOtes de boeuf) Today I'm inspired by my traveling, which
which remind the palate—not the pocket- does not mean that I'm able to digest all my
book—of his Manhattan mainstay. discoveries right away: I definitely need time
and don't pressure myself.
How did you devise the Raleigh's restaurant How do American and French palates
March 2004 concept and menu? differ?
It was very important for me to understand When it comes to the menu, Americans are
the hotel,feel its vibes and create something more intimidated than the French.In Europe,
in synch with Andre's artistic side.When you countries have been around for centuries and
walk into one of his hotels,you feel comfort- traditions have been under way for a long
able and at home.These days,so many hotels time. Perhaps because it was a priority to
are cold and trendy:They make you feel like build this country very fast and feed all the
you're walking on a runway and need to per- people,there wasn't a lot of time to refine the
form. I wanted to stay at the Raleigh as a cuisine.Today, it's a rich, well-established
tourist,to see what it feels like to be a guest. nation and people have begun to focus on
For example,a little 24-hour coffee shop is in and discover food.For example,in France,a
front.What did I do to understand its dynam- food critic does not have very much power:A
ic?I went to a nightclub,got drunk and came journalist will write something up about a
back to the lobby.What did I decide guests restaurant, but the French are opinionated
want at 5 a.m.after partying and drinking too and already know what they want. But in
much?The lobby area is very masculine, so I America,if The New York Times says you're a
didn't see sushi,but maybe a little ceviche to genius,nobody doubts you're a genius.If The
.47
A tropical charlotte in which
pineapple,golden apples and
guavas fill the molds.Garnished
with coconut and poached guavas.
BY SUZY BUCKLEY PHOTOGRAPHS BY BILL WISSER
IN THE KITCHEN
Pan-fried grouper with i44
endives braised in a -* t'
citrus bath,served
with a mussel and Z),
orange broth.
le
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col. . '
Ripen,an opinionated chef,is passionate
about food,but detests the gossip that
comes with fame.
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"I don't care if you have starch or the right vitamins. Yellowfin tuna brushed with oliv il,sliced chives
and shallot,garnished with arugula and Parmi-
I'm not a doctor or nutritionist: I'm a chef. Although 'iano-Reggiano and dressed with sherry vinaigr
my style happens to be healthy, I'm not doing it on r ,.
purpose. It's all about the taste."
New York Times says you're an idiot,you're an idiot. I said,'No,it's not my job,you'll have to introduce your- Z,: '
Americans still need guidance and often aren't confi- self.'But she begged me.I eventually told her,'Okay,I'll
dent enough to have their own opinions.They still be with him at the Four Seasons next week.If you hap- • ,
sometimes need someone to tell them,'This is good, pen to be in the dining room, I'll introduce you.'She ' ' ,
this is cool.' showed up with a friend,and after the meal the maitre ' { '
Describe one of your most famous dishes. d'ended up putting two tables together and we all
These days, it sounds almost boring to talk about a shared dessert.They left,we walked them out and AThai-inspi •iver-scallop ceviche seasoned
carpaccio of tuna,but Le Bernardin was the first restau- came back to the table for coffee.The next day,my wife with lime ju•, onut milk,Jalapeno,red
rant in America to do it,and we have a very special called me from work,asking if I'd read the New York onion,pepper a tro.
technique:We slice the tuna and place it between two Post,which had written something like,'Eric Ripen and
sheets of plastic,pound it,cut it and put it on the plate. Rocco DiSpirito were spotted laughing and dining with halibut is going to be the star of the plate,so anything
This way we don't have to freeze it.Many restaurants two bombshells,later leaving with them arm in arm.' else in the dish must just elevate the fish.My food
freeze it and then put it through the slicer,which You're planning a more upscale dining project sometimes looks quite minimalist or simple:You might
makes a huge difference in the flavor.Over the years indoors at the Raleigh.How will it be different from want more colors,but that would make us lose the hal-
we've mastered the technique of thickness.If it's too what you're doing now poolside and on the patio? ibut.I like to steam it—not sear it,which makes it dry
thin you don't taste the tuna.If it's too thick,it's a little Will it be more similar to Le Bemardin? and too crispy on the outside.A crust like that can kill
too chewy.The dish is so simple that you look at it and Here at the Raleigh,you're at an art deco hotel—a real its flavor.I am also very subtle with the sauce,adding a
think,Okay,it's a carpaccio.But so many thoughts are landmark with an amazing garden.You're by the spike of acidity to contrast with the rich halibut.
behind it and so much technique.It's a very simple beach.What we're doing now—on the outside patio, What about accompaniments?
item that really elevates the fish to another level. inside the lobby and by the pool—is a very reasonable As far as sides go,here's my philosophy:The purpose of
How does your reputation as a celebrity chef shape value.Nothing is more than$25 on the lunch menu. vegetables is to complement the fish, not to nourish
your everyday life? Next year's indoor restaurant will be more expensive, you. People don't come to Le Bernardin because
I don't let it affect my private life:The press respects me but I only want one Le Bernardin: It's a very special they're hungry.You go to a diner when you're hungry.
very much.I'm thankful I don't end up in the gossip place and I can't do two with the same passion. Of course you don't want to leave the restaurant hun-
columns too much.Except once:'Page Six'wrote some- What is your favorite fish to prepare? gry,but I don't care if you have starch or the right vita-
thing that really pissed me off at the time.About three Halibut.I love the texture and flavor—that it's fragile mins.I'm not a doctor or nutritionist:I'm a chef.I don't
years ago, I had lunch plans with a friend of mine, and the flavors are very defined.Although it's very easy limit myself or cook to someone's diet.Although my
Rocco DiSpirito,at The Four Seasons in New York One to mess up,it's a magnificent fish to cook You must be style happens to be healthy,I'm not doing it on pur-
day,a friend of mine asked if I'd introduce her to Rocco. technical,precise and gentle.My approach is that the pose.It's all about the taste.
THE RALEIGH 1775 COLLINS AVENUE MIAMI BEACH FL 33139 PHONE 800 848 1775 RALEIGHHOTEL.COM