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BY MARK O'KEEFE
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BY EVELYN McDONNELL with their faith in Gc
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It's Super Bowl Sunday and there are no TVs at Nina,an al fresco Collins,an evangelic
oceanfront restaurant in North Beach. But that hasn't stopped a the National Huma
crowd of Bohemian beautiful people from gathering to savor steak Institute, in an inter
and pasta while listening to a couple of moptops play bluesy rock
guitar and a DJ spin tasteful, loungey world beats.
The atmosphere this evening—called Collage2,an art happening
—is mellow and sociable,hippie chic.Tarot card readings and mas-
sages are offered beneath white tents while children scramble
among high-design lime-green plastic armchairs and paintings of
baroque clowns and voluptuous beach bathers.
No one's worrying about the Buccaneers because the Super Bowl
features the wrong kind of football for this crowd.Like a growing
number of restaurants,bakeries and bars in this area,Nina is domi-
[). • ` a. nated by the proprietors'compatriots—Argentines. (Today,when
the U.S.soccer team meets Argentina at the Orange Bowl, Nina's f'
Lbusiness might be affected by a different kind of fiitbol.)
"A big exodus started three to four years ago,''says Alex Pels,the
restaurant's DJ, a video maker, and husband of owner Ines Doti.
"There's Argentines all over the place.”
The crowd at Nina is just part of the Argentine wave that has
washed over South Florida in recent years.Some estimates put the -
number of expats here at 100,000 and,like immigrants before them,
they've brought with them their culture and tastes.They're concen-
trated in the beach areas and are transforming at least one neighbor-
PLEASE SEE ARGENTINES,3E i
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TRANSFORMPHOTOS BY RAUL RUBIERA/HERALD STAFF
FOOD'S A DRAW:At Las Vacas Gordas,a Miami Beach eatery known BY DONNA PETROZELLC
A SOUTH FL0RIDA for its meats,top,owner Luis Gajer,standing at table,checks on,from New York Daily News
left,Blanca de Tejada,Jorge Alvarez and Carla Kreysa,far right.Above,
NEIGHBORHOOD Julio Berton',co-owner of Dolce Vita in Miami Beach,serves a treat. There will be les
more of Katie and
. entertainment news
States launches a wa
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ARGENTINES,FROM 1E , i
hood, Miami Beach's North ,.� , '
Beach.Its unofficial new name: Mini . yr?.^ t
Little Buenos Aires.Others call 4
the approximately one mile
SL
, \
radius from the intersection of
71st Street and Collins Avenue 1619„
Baines Beach.
"It's going to become like aiii! :w y
' Chinatown in California," says ,
Roberto Bignes,owner of Bue- ,
nos Aires Market on Collins N4
Avenue and 73rd Street. Little Buenos Aires
An increasing number of $
businesses have sprung up,in
part to meet the needs of the
many immigrants who have
i,, 4 fled Argentina's deteriorating THE HERALD
economy. Buenos Aires's loss MDL020803
is South Florida's gain;North
Beach is now a destination
spot for succulent steaks, fla- "It used to be everyone
vorful pastas, divine gelato, went to New York," Gajer
and sweet fractural(pastries) says. "No one thought about
filled with dulce de leche(cara- Miami 20 years ago.Not any-
mel), all topped with endless more.Miami is a growing city
conversation. with a lot to do.In New York —
Of course,behind this cul- ...everything has been going ;y
tural infusion lie the experi- on for so many years. Here,
ences of any immigrant group, everything is new." `
ranging from dreams fulfilled North Beach began to . 1 xid
to struggles against prejudice emerge as a magnet for Argen- ,'
and deportation. tines thanks to the success of u 'mss " ,
Prima Pasta,Vacas Gordas and . 4 4.-
PASTA AND STEAK Buenos Aires Market. '"� F
Most date the biggest influx "The people already here >= ..
of Argentines back to the late make it more familiar," Pels
'90s when that country's social says."For us,Gerry[Cea)is an
and economic structure began idol.He became an inspiration,
to unravel. But Argentines and he's been incredibly sup-
started establishing beach- portive."
heads of their cultural heritage With almost 19,000 Argen-
on Collins and 71st almost a tines according to'the 2001 ,
decade ago. census,Miami-Dade has more
Gerardo Cea was among the Argentines than any other
first.When he opened a family county in the United States; W' , ,
restaurant featuring Italian Palm Beach and Broward rank y :;' " '
cuisine on 71st street in 1993, third and fifth respectively,
the area was still run-down. with about 5,000 Argentines
"It was dirty, destroyed; each. But Argentine consul
there was nothing here," Cea general Luis M.Riccheri esti- ,,:,:
says."But still,I saw that it was mates there may be as many as
an intersection of powerful 100,000 in South Florida.
neighborhoods." Many arrived between 1996
Cea's restaurant, Prima and February 2002, when
Pasta, is now considered one Argentines didn't need a tour-
of the best in South Florida. ist visa.They overstayed their ON THE TOWN:The Cea family
The walls are filled with pic- 90-day legal limit, because Blanca Barletta and Carla Cea.P
tures of Cea with his celebrity even illegal, underpaid work
clientele:Shakira,Lenny Krav- beats their homeland's 25 per-
itz, Iggy Pop, the Gibb broth- cent unemployment rate. their Buenos Aires Bakery
ers. His parents still cook in "There's no safety and no from Little Havana to Collins.
the kitchen. jobs for the people," Bignes At virtually any time of the
As with many Argentine says of the situation back day, their patrons now must
businesses, the cuisine taps home. take a number to order Argen-
their Italian lineage.Argentina "The money is different: tine empanadas or miniature
remains the most European The club pays you here,"says French pastries.
identified of Latin American Edgardo "Gardy" Pais, leader "In Argentina, you have
countries, in part because so of the rock band The Gardys, confiterias with inside and out-
many immigrants from Italy who moved to Miami three side tables,"says Gabriela Cos-
and Germany arrived there in years ago."You can't play for two sisteso rs who lo,ruthis bakof e
the last century. free all your life."
Like Cea, Luis Gajer left Along with places to get ery and one in Pembroke Pines
New York for Miami in the mate (a drink made from tree (the original Buenos Aires Bak-
early '90s. "After 15 years in leaves) and medialunas(little ery in Queens, has been
New York,Miami for me is like croissants), North Beach open for 32 years).N.Y,,.,Argentines
a paradise, starting with the draws Argentines with its like to socialize a lot.They can
weather," says Gajer, origi- cheap apartments.It's a place spend hours drinking and Con-
nally from Uruguay, sitting in to live by the ocean—and not suming, enjoying the minute
Las Vacas Gordas (The Fat pay SoBe prices. with friends.We have a group
Cows), the Argentine parril- "Argentines love the sea," of nine guys who meet every
lada(steak house)whose side- says Nina owner Doti. "It's a night. They say, `You're the
walk tables with their Hol- dream come true to be close to only thing we have that makes
stein-patterned umbrellas have the beach.More of our friends us feel like we're home
enlivened Normandy Triangle are living here." again
in North Beach for seven In a geographical move that The name of the gelateria
years."On top of that,I get to speaks volumes about Miami's that opened last year across
have this little place that shifting demographics, the from Vacas Gordas pays horn-
makes me feel so good. Costanso family relocated age to that Italian-style cafe
HOT SPOTS
FOR ARGENTINES
—. Here are some places that
�-`� �' have become the focal point for
�� q fY (jam p the Argentine community:
Wyk 4�T n'1'� �f.d.��� 4
� 1 Baraboo, 7300 Ocean Ter.,
'_ , - r : ' uf 305-867-4242.
, W I ft • 4 ,,is. , A t 1 Buenos Aires Bakery, 7134
B
!In/ • �, Collins Ave., 305 8617887.
I ��rr� r,,, �. ,, 1 Buenos Aires Market, 7315
r/� ( Collins Ave., 305-864-7745.
,11 ..,-- ' '/ --- I Che Sopranos, 916 71st St.,
- (? 305-868-8989.
;f`f ` '- 1 La Dolce Vita, 954 Normandy
; %
Dr., 305-865-2523.
ai . lY , ' 1,
,'. Is 1 Las Vacas Gordas, 933 Nor-
, �,0 , � s 41i.I i:",1: mandy Dr., 305-867-1717.
�"" ' � � ° °1k - I Nina,74th and Ocean Terrace,
4 i.., at.. 305-861-5333.
1 Prima Pasta, 414 71st St.,
w µ 305-867-0106.
��° m ,,=,iv,; 1 Sandbar Lounge, 6752 Col-
lins Ave., 305-865-1752. The Gar-
dys play here every Saturday.
*---400110 1 Sapori di Roma, 6984 Collins
Ave., 305-868-7001.
•
•
I
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•
RAUL RUBIERA/HERALD STAFF
has owned Cafe Prima Pasta,top,for 10 years.From left,Arturo Cea,Gerardo Cea,Fabian Cea,aunt
t Nina Restaurant,above,Jackie Carlo watches a shadowdance by Wendy Gonzalez.
vibe, which characterizes the "A poet friend said to me, while the latter has opted for
Argentine approach to life: La `Argentines look like penguins. more exclusive Aventura. But
Dolce Vita.Little Buenos Aires We look like we have tuxedos the fact Argentine immigrants
even has its own fountain, at on, but underneath we're are often affluent accounts for
Normandy Triangle; it's no naked,' " says Cea. "In my the number of new business
Trevi,but it helped lure Gajer experience of life in the U.S., ventures in many parts of
to the area. other Spanish people act weird South Florida.
There's a time-capsule qual- with Argentines, until we It's the new attitude of the
ify to Little Buenos Aires. At prove who we are, that we're younger immigrants that is
Nina's Collage, well-dressed not penguins." making Little Buenos Aires
partyers and circus-like per- Argentines' famous pride one of the best places in South
formers create a Felliniesque makes their current position Florida to enjoy wine,food and
atmosphere, while Gardy and all the more humbling. "Back conversation.
Gabriel Carambula, who home, I used to look down on "I don't think of it as an
played with Argentine rock immigrants,"one transplanted Argentine neighborhood,"Pels
legend Fito Paez, are shaggy Buenos Airean said. "Now, I says,pointing to the area's Bra-
troubadours playing'60s rock am one." zilian, Venezuelan, Mexican,
'n'roll. Class distinctions even sep- Cuban and Colombian busi-
"It was the best time,some- arate Argentines in Miami. nesses. "That whole `We're
thing creative really hap- "There's a group of people European,not Latin American'
pened,"Gardy says of the'60s. who came here looking for a attitude is a bunch of crap.
"There was a change in people future and are starting from Even in Argentina, it's disap-
and art and minds." deep down,and there are oth- pearing. Not Argentines only,
DESPISED AS SNOBS ers who came here with some but all these immigrants are
money, also looking for a going to create a new Miami,
Argentines' Eurocentrism future, but a different kind of one that's not just Cuban,but a
has given them a stereotype as future," Riccheri says. cosmopolitan place of Latin
snobs,sometimes despised by The former group gravi- origins. We're changing the
other Hispanic groups. tated towards Baires Beach cultural aspect of the city."