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1616-7 What`s Doing In South Beach WHAT ' S DOING IN South e9 Bay. General admission: $12. Infor- ° By PAMELA ROBIN BRANDY ,, mations (305) 531-8410 and www �� / .boatshows.com/miami2000. "' "Going to Miami" is the title of A free citywide multicultural open David Reiff's 1987 sociological study house on the second Thursday of �� -',,- of Florida's largest city. But almost every month,typically features con- I,° . always,vacationers are going not to certs ranging from Haitian drum- ' the city of Miami, but to the city of ming to klezmer music, demonstra , t , Miami Beach, just across Biscayne tions of Latin dance forms like flat §. , Bay. Often, they're going to the is- menco and capoeira (Brazilian mar- /,; 44 f'; , land's southernmost end, South tial arts and dance), art auctions, di on the beach, crafts markets, �" Beach,a glittering playland since its Yoga ;�' , .", transformation from a mangrove films and play readings. Free buses $' swamp at the turn of the century. run among the roughly 20 sites.Com- A few recent developments that ing arts nights are Feb.8 and March supplement SoBe's already well- 8,6 to 9 p.m. Information: (305) 673 <• �``; known lures—broad beaches of im- 7500 or www.secondthursdays.com. r ported Bahamian sand, subtropical $" w •- winter weather,hot Latin American • max, flavor, all-night excitement, and the Sightseeing roughly 400 whimsical buildings of the Art Deco Historic District — ,7; have made it even easier to spend a The Wolfsonian-Florida Interna- "Miami" vacation without crossing tional University, 1001 Washington , t the causeway to Miami. Avenue, (305) 531-1001, began as a One factor is food. With only a storehouse for the extensive private ,ems41., ° handful of exceptions,SoBe night life collection of decorative and "propa- since the area's revival has been Banda" art of Mitchell Wolfson Jr. about serious partying, not serious The museum focuses on exhibitions `'i" eating.But the last three years have like "Print, Power and Persuasion" ,°'` -fp' '' seen the opening of several exciting (until April 29),which asks whether dining spots, including some restau- German graphic art from 1890 to rant-nightclubs that combine fine 1945 was art or commerce. To April here to Stay cuisine with entertainment. 1,a retrospective of Karel Teige,the y Additionally, a $16.2 million face avant-garde Czech designer, fea- lift, completed in 1996, has trans- tures a full-scale model of his"ideal Pillows topped by beach balls in- formed the Lincoln Road pedestrian apartment for workers" from 1932. stead of chocolates serve notice that mall, in the Deco District's north Information: www.wolfsonian.org. the stylish new 67-room Townhouse, end, from a beloved but dilapidated Admission$5; closed Wednesday. 150 20th Street, (877) 534-3800, fax locals'hangout back into what it was It's not necessary to go indoors for r (305) 534-3811, (877) -3800,www.townhousehotel in the days of Miami Beach's found- art. On the beach, artist-designed .com, is aimed at the young and ing father, Carl Fisher: SoBe's lifeguard stations run from Fifth to young at heart. The usual comforts swankiest shopping-and-strolling 14th Streets. The most famous, and are augmented by exercise bikes and street. Too swanky,some say. funky,is at 10th Street: the circular comic books in the corridors. Even But comparing Lincoln Road 60 tower decorated by Kenny Scharf standard rooms have ocean views, years ago and today,the differences with pop art squiggles and grafitti. VCR and CD players, data ports, are details.Instead of upscale chains The Miami Design Preservation like Bonwits, there's Williams-Sono- League conducts 90-minute walking refrigerators and comfy couches. ma;instead of expensive sable coats tours on Thursday at 6:30 p.m. and High-season rates are $195 for a Saturdayat 10:30 a.m. from its Art standard double to $395 for one of for vacationing housewives at Saks, three penthouses. there are expensive faux fur wraps Deco Welcome Center, 1001 OceanThe Hotel, 801 Collins Avenue, for vacationing house pets at Dog Drive, (305) 672-2014. It also spon- The Hotel, 801 Collins Avenue, Bar (723 North Lincoln Lane). sors two-hour bicycle tours at 10:30 (877) 843-4683,fax (305) 531-3222,or a.m. on the third Sunday of each www•thehotelofsouthbeach.com, a month from Miami Beach Bicycle 1939 Art Deco jewel, was recently Center, 601 Fifth Street; to reserve, restored with vibrant interiors by the Events call (305) 674-0150. The charge for fashion designer Todd Oldham. either tour is$10 (bike rental,$10). Amenities at this 52-room oasis a The annual Art Deco Weekend,on The most festive times to stroll block from the beach,include twice- Ocean Drive this Friday through Lincoln Road are the two Sundays daily maid service, fitness center Sunday, is a trip back to the 1930's, each month when the weekly outdoor with spa treatments, room service when SoBe's Tropical Deco hotels Farmers' Market is supplemented from Wish,one of SoBe's best restau- were built.The mostly outdoor festi by a sizable antiques and collectibles rants, and a rooftop pool with pan- val features historic tours (walking, market.Besides today,coming dates oramic view of the Deco district. bike,trolley and boat,for$10 to$30), are Jan.28,Feb.11 and 25 and March Rates start at$275. street theater, big band perform- 11 and 25.After dark,the live bands At the more recently redeveloped „.r• ••„ ,,• , and belly dancers hired by may ( oce_c[}Y3side_rPrl cooler, far south and more than 10 blocks of booths Lincoln Road cafes are supplement- end of SoBe, the 31-room Century selling antiques and reproductions. ed by unofficial street performers. Hotel, 140 Ocean Drive, (888) 982- Information: (305) 672-2014. Directed by Edward Villella, the i . kr former principal dancer of the New ( r ,, Main{Beach York City Ballet, the Miami City '- °� �® South Convention " Ballet is to celebrate its 15th anniver w' ®each U Center • sary with a performance at the Jack- ,�. �- f. Q Jackie Gleason. i A,ni ie Gleason Theater,1700 Washington 4V? : ,, ,• y Theater • Avenue, on Feb. 2, followed by two m � � _ ���°°���� � � � LINCCLNRD. ' c ▪ balls at the new Ritz-Carlton, South a �:> o Beach on Lincoln Road; ball tickets "' ii Pedestrian Malt are$100 to$1,000 from(305)929-7000. Miami; To _ � Beach c� The dance program, also performed Intern: a, I. " 4 isrysr. ' Feb.3 and 4 includes the "Don Qui- A"PO k—'/,,..-; 13 E WAAY°1 A xote Pas de Deux,""Donizetti Varia- :� ill oGt 4TH sr F."LAMINGO p Deco tions,""Tarantella,"and"Slaughter eac PARK Welcome on 10th Avenue."A program March 2 Ml•mi r a d' A Center to 4 will feature a premiere of "Theook, • -, '' --'Fs� Waltz," part of Mr. Villella's own • a < ° • 1,-..c'Is„,:R44 ;"Neighborhood Ballroom Ballet." ! • !^ 10TH sr.' nWolfson an .'1' Tickets, at (305) 929-7010 or www 1 a r ,. i ; �U -, .miamicityballet.org,$19 to$49.50. z . ` With over 2,000 exhibitors,the Mi- o ART DEC© �` �� •a°F DISTRICT to ,."1._-• ami International Boat Show andvz. < . Strictly Sail, Feb. 15 to 20, is one of " srtfa sr. ti- ce t the world's largest showcases of new o �.# , � Miami = � boats and accessories.It's also one of � Q � , "�" a7 s ' ,�, a Bi a Cie 4 Miami Beach's most packed annual Center ,Z '? events; plan on using the city's free t• • ' �_�i - 3 S'l x- r(1..) ^ — r, ' OO sUHv�,4 F! .. ++ • cu o ,...„„ , -,,,,„. -4v.ist u .• S `c�'w,"e\x ' � s..to .1.'3 ,ve r Y 'cu €. .#ae+ t a 4—',4 < i yz �R, €a' s f aem ,,,„-,'1, a Aii rci nit nx ��"fig V° . i....44:';Alf 1 - '''',•:, -Fn '12 .T.; - ''' '. . ' w-A0 ,.:;„. .4', � l^♦ 'iW 4 .,., . �m , ,... „ _,..... ,..,.,... � y« pa . ..`i 0 w' w V 0.��: - 1. A Ili ,,l'-itA5,',=141-0;1-,4- ' - ' i ' ' ' s'-.*: c 1 • ui W .., o o p a0 o 0 O.E /� t .. r.y e^ ,-_• ,: ..M,., .la`s" t r/�. y ,,"' .•' i'7 a ft uL 7+ 0 Y O � � x W i s a ;r Yo,� c%mE y ... = ; o 't, a M O R' a eii IIIcVticliU5 va ua.va.aua a...a. w.ab r dining spots, including some restau- German graphic art from 1890 to rant-nightclubs that combine fine 1945 was art or commerce. To April Where to Stay cuisine with entertainment. 1,a retrospective of Karel Teige,the Additionally, a $16.2 million face avant-garde Czech designer, fea- lift, completed in 1996, has trans- tures a full-scale model of his"ideal Pillows topped by beach balls in- formed the Lincoln Road pedestrian apartment for workers" from 1932. stead of chocolates serve notice that mall, in the Deco District's north Information: www.wolfsonian.org. the stylish new 67-room Townhouse, • end, from a beloved but dilapidated Admission$5; closed Wednesday. 150 20th Street, (877) 534-3800, fax locals'hangout back into what it was It's not necessary to go indoors for (305) 534-3811, (877)www.townhousehotel otel in the days of Miami Beach's found- art. On the beach, artist-designed .com, is aimed at the young and ing father, Carl Fisher: SoBe's lifeguard stations run from Fifth to young at heart. The usual comforts swankiest shopping-and-strolling 14th Streets. The most famous, and are augmented by exercise bikes and street. Too swanky,some say. funky,is at 10th Street: the circular comic books in the corridors. Even But comparing Lincoln Road 60 tower decorated by Kenny Scharf standard rooms have ocean views, years ago and today,the differences with pop art squiggles and grafitti. VCR and CD players, data ports, are details.Instead of upscale chains The Miami Design Preservation refrigerators and comfy couches. like Bonwits, there's Williams-Sono- League conducts 90-minute walking High-season rates are $195 for a ma; instead of expensive sable coats tours on Thursday at 6:30 p.m. and for vacationing housewives at Saks, Saturday at 10:30 a.m. from its Art standard double to $395 for one of there are expensive faux fur wraps Deco Welcome Center, 1001 Ocean three penthouses. Drive, (305) 672-2014. It also spon- The Hotel, 801 Collins Avenue, for vacationing houseopets at Dog P (877) 843-4683,fax (305) 531-3222, or Bar (723 North Lincoln Lane). sors two-hour bicycle tours at 10:30 a.m. on the third Sunday of each www.thehotelofsouthbeach.com, a month from Miami Beach Bicycle 1939 Art Deco jewel, was recently Center, 601 Fifth Street; to reserve, restored with vibrant interiors by the Events call (305) 674-0150. The charge for fashion designer Todd Oldham. either tour is$10 (bike rental,$10). Amenities at this 52-room oasis a The annual Art Deco Weekend,on The most festive times to stroll block from the beach, include twice- Ocean Drive this Friday through Lincoln Road are the two Sundays daily maid service, fitness center Sunday, is a trip back to the 1930's, each month when the weekly outdoor with spa treatments, room service when SoBe's Tropical Deco hotels Farmers' Market is supplemented from Wish,one of SoBe's best restau- were built.The mostly outdoor festi- by a sizable antiques and collectibles rants, and a rooftop pool with pan- val features historic tours (walking, market.Besides today,coming dates oramic view of the Deco district. bike,trolley and boat,for$10 to$30), are Jan.28,Feb.11 and 25 and March Rates start at$275. street theater, bigbandperform- _ 11 and 25.After dark,the live bands At the more recently redeveloped _ ance . vsranderine imner natar and belly dancers hired.by many_ (hence considered rnoler) far south. and more than 10 blocks of booths Lincoln Road cafes are supplement- end of SoBe, the 31-room Century selling antiques and reproductions. ed by unofficial street performers. Hotel, 140 Ocean Drive, (888) 982- Information: (305) 672-2014. Directed by Edward Villella, the R .x ®7 . H •, former principal dancer of the New ) Miami Beach York CityBallet, the Miami City °� - m South ° Convention � ■Center Ballet is to celebrate its 15th anniver- w 1 Beach sary with a performance at the Jack- >; '' { " „e"‘" Jackie Gleason A,a ie Gleason Theater,1700 Washington 4> .z r ..,.. z gyp,,-- Theater W Avenue, on Feb. 2, followed by two m f go ffi LINCOLN Ro. balls at the new Ritz-Carlton, South °, Pedestrian Mall Beach on Lincoln Road; ball tickets f .Miami ',. are$100 to$1,000 from(305)929-7000. I To Mia i. ,, ,;;Beac6,, �= The dance program, alsoperformed ';Intern +..E_ 15TH Sr. P g Airpo '3 r ESPANOLA Feb. 3 and 4,includes the "Don Qui- j�f WAY 14TH ST. xote Pas de Deux,""Donizetti Varia n';® otjt FLAMINGO Art Deco tions,""Tarantella,"and"Slaughter eac a PARK Welcome on 10th Avenue."A program March 2 I Miami „ m �� Center to 4 will feature a premiere of "The I ' a o Waltz," part of Mr. Villella's own i= f ,-0 m 0TH Sr. z • Wolfsonian "Neighborhood Ballroom Ballet." o3 Fluw Tickets, at (305) 929-7010 or www - x.'"•0470,0, m f .miamicityballet.org,$19 to$49.50. Y z With over 2,000 exhibitors,the Mi- o ART DECO �� DISTRICT W ami International Boat Show and PA t StrictlySail, Feb. 15 to 20, is one of , 4, > r 4. m 5TH ST ■ o e PA 4 the world's largest showcases of new 3 :� Miami ��' boats and accessories.It's also one of Beach �e Miami Beach's most packed annual 4' ''V' Bicycle Q o ,a" Center , , events; plan on using the city's free - shuttle buses between the Miami y ,i °° Beach Convention Center, 1901 Con f r" ' ``' BISCAYNE vention Center Drive,and the show's - sr F9 waterfront locations, on Biscayne : i` A '' PAMELA ROBIN BRANDT writes `,-',,,f„ . ,,,,,,,e-1,r, about food and travel. The New York Times F.xe,,m -t4 , a^ ,u � ' ., t l A n a te ' ? "' ' .: 0 1, 3688, fax (305) 538-5733, www leche that should be declared a con- .centuryhotelsobe.com, combines a Vital Statistics trolled substance. Highlighting the perfectly preserved 1939 facade by informally festive decor are 3-D the legendary Deco architect Henry ,..,,,,,,‘,,,,,,‘,21,..,-,,,,,:,,,,,,,A. paintings by the Skull sisters — Hohauser with a.tasteful 1997 interi campy,cartoony street scenes of old or renovation in sleek sand tones. Havana. Dinner for two, with beer, South Beach 7 38, Rooms and suites: $190 to$250. Miami Beach 063939'387 $25 and up. 96Budget: The very Mediterranean- Since the famous and historic looking Clay Hotel, 1438 Washington �,, a< �, 4 x Joe's Stone Crab,SoBe's first restau- Avenue,(800)379-2529,fax(305) 673- . � rant (1913), doesn't take reserva- 0346,www.clayhotel.com,on the cor- tions,the wait for a table can top two ner of the narrow Spanish Village High 74° hours. So locals often get cold block of Espanola Way, is partly a Low 61° cracked crab claws to go (with sides youth hostel. But it has 120 cheery Days with rain 9 of crisp cole slaw and Key lime pie) private rooms, most with private next door at Joe's Take Away, 11 baths, and generous amenities forF ,sa �,< , ,.",.... Washington Avenue, (305) 6734611. the money(satellite TV,phones with Head down the block to South Pointe voice mail, air-conditioning). It also Room for two with tax $225.00 Park for a picnic.Many people find a has a past as Al Capone's gambling � � e _. crab claw dinner, about $40, enough den and as the site of a nightclub � :.,�, -M.. for two. where Desi Arnaz, then known only as a Cuban bandleader, created the With tax and tip, rhumba craze. Doubles, $54 to but not drinks $ 40.00 - $101.25. tea• Where to Party Luxury: Since 1995,when the New � :'_ York hotelier Ian Schrager and the Upon entry $ 1.50 The club of the moment is three- French architect Philippe Starck Each additional mile $ 2.00 month-old 320, at 320 Lincoln Road, converted a decaying 1947 high rise into a 208 room beachfront resort, From the airport $ 24.00 (305) 531-2800, (cover $20) which the Delano, at 1685 Collins Avenue, 1r r , , , trend trackers will recognize as the (800) 555-5001, fax (305) 673-0888, it .6ip ; ,s ,xaA� site of Bar Room,the club of the last has been the most sophisticated moment. More laid-back folks like P Midsized car with Laundry Bar, 721 North Lincoln place to stay in SoBe. Some find the unlimited free mileage $53.00' Lane, (305) 531-7700, a combination stark-white standard rooms a bit All figures except population and nightclub and laundry (motto: "Get sparse; virtually the only color ac- taxi fares are averages. sloshed while your clothes get cent is a green Granny Smith apple. Sources.Greater Miami Convention and But the balconied suites, and, es e- washd"); www.laundrybar.com. P Visitors Bureau,City of Miami Beach, Otherwise, what's hot depends on cially,the eight two-story bungalows Fodor's World Weather Guide, around the pool,are fabulous—as is local businesses what night it is: from the Back Door the lone cocktail table set artfully in Bamby event ($10) on Monday at the pool. Rates,$405 to$2,800. crobar, 1445 Washington Avenue, wine pairings,$105 each. (305) 531-5027,to the weekend scene At The Hotel's restaurant, Wish, at the megasize Level ($20), 1235 Where to Eat 801 Collins Avenue, (305) 674-9474, Washington Avenue, (305) 532-1525. the chef Andrea Curto is known for There's even a last gasp on Sunday subtle but bold-flavored specialties afternoon,when the beautfiful crowd Since opening in March, Mark's like crispy-skinned, local yellow eye heads to Nikki Beach ($20), 1 Ocean South Beach, 1120 Collins Avenue in snapper with sweet corn and poblano Drive, (305) 538-1231,for D.J. music the Hotel Nash, (305) 604-9050, has pepper risotto and trout roe-gar- outdoors by arbor-sheltered tables been hailed as one of the best on the nished cilantro beurre blanc. The and teepees right on the dunes. beach. The menu,designed by Mark hottest tables are in the parasol- If this is all too exhausting,there's Militello and executed by Tim An- protected outside fountain court. B.E.D., 929 Washington Avenue, driola, changes daily but features Dinner for two,with wine,about$120. (305) 5.32-9070,where beverages, en- creations like anise-hazlenut-dusted For those wanting Cuban cuisine tertainment and dinner are served soft-shell crab with peach tomato without crossing the causeway to Lit- atop mammoth gauze-draped beds. broth; millionaire organic green sal- tie Havana,Puerto Sagua,700 Collins No cover. Closed Monday and Tues- ad with Maine lobster,foie gras and Avenue, (305) 673-1115, serves tasty day. Wednesday is the hottest night. truffle vinaigrette; and an aptly takes on classics like shredded ropa All this will,of course,be outdated named sabotage of chocolates des- vieja and medianoche sandwiches by tomorrow. Local free papers like sert.Dinner for two with wine,about (ham,pork,cheese and pickles,then New Times,Wire or TWN contain the $135; six-course tasting menu with pressed and grilled), and cafe con new night life A_list. ■